Sinju

If geography is destiny, then Sinju is fated to be an upscale sushi joint no matter what the menu says. Its two locations are in suburban-chic Bridgeport Village, where West Hills mavens go to fight traffic and boredom, and the Pearl District, which is more Mickey Mouse than Mikimoto, but—pfft!—it's an elegant place to have dinner anyway. Sinju has a solid menu with everything you expect from a sushi bar, a staff well-versed in the restaurant's offerings and an atmosphere that's equally welcoming to families with small children, couples in their 20s and larger parties (who can reserve a table in a private tatami room with windows overlooking lively Northwest 10th Avenue). The miso soup arrives perfectly warmed, and the sushi is molded in delightful, easy-to-manage morsels. If your beer or sake glass runneth under, have no fear: Your server will save you—and your evening. The bill has no such sympathy. (BS)

Signature dish: The house special rolls include the Las Vegas, with spicy tuna, eel, cream cheese and avocado, and the Jamison, with eel, mango and macadamia nut.

Standouts: Sinju also offers a range of warm dishes, from chicken katsu to sukiyaki.

Regrets: No wasabi ice cream. Plus, on one evening, the appetizer arrived after the sushi.

WWeek 2015