No, this is not a covert operation. But Gloria will happily share a few of her Salvadoran culinary secrets while you dip into the hearty salsa (made with seasonal, fresh produce) at her tiny kitchen-nook cafe. Check out chuletas of pork or steak, simmering in a rich sauce; hearty and tender tamales laid out on banana leaves; and pupusas—pork, beans and cheese stuffed into puffy corn-flour pancakes. Heaping mounds of black beans, golden rice and a crisp, tangy slaw round out all of the fresh, made-to-order entrees (all $10.50). (JLM)

12500 SW Broadway, Beaverton, 643-2320. Lunch Tuesday-Friday.