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Puerto Rico is pretty well fucked right now, plagued by brain drain to the mainland and facing Greek-style default on its debts. And yet, to hear Borikén co-owner Awilda Medina-Vazquez tell it, things should be OK so long as they have cube steak. "I eat it every night," she says. "I always say, when I die, if they cut me open, they'll find a lot of cube steak."
Not the most pleasant image, but it didn't slow my progress on the bistec encebollado ($13.95), which recalls a lightly seasoned ground sirloin and is paired with orange rice that's almost juicy with lime and saffron.
Borikén—the commonwealth's original name in the Taíno language—is the area's only Puerto Rican restaurant. It's a humble affair, tucked into the corner of a Beaverton plaza, with 12 picnic-style tables covered in plastic tablecloths. The major draws are the cube steak and mofongos, mashed green plantains that get lightly fried and topped with anything from fried pork to conch. Personally, I'd go just for the orange rice with a little cup of stewy red beans and the delightful tembleque ($4), a coconut and cinnamon pudding.
Pro Tip: Remember Borikén is closed Friday night and all day Saturday, since the owners are Seventh-day Adventists and observe the Sabbath during peak restaurant hours.
GO: 12800 SW Canyon Road, Beaverton, 596-3571, borikenrestaurant.com. 11 am-9 pm Sunday-Thursday, 11 am-5 pm Friday. $-$$.
Willamette Week