Nak won

The heart of Beaverton's K-town belongs to Tae Ok Lee. For 20 years, the legend goes, she's never missed a single day of work at Nak Won—as good an argument as any for kimchi's health benefits.

The sextuagenarian chef, imposingly regal under a prim dome of white hair, cooks alone. Her vast array of banchan appetizers arrives with the generous spirit of any matriarch, enough to form a light lunch all by itself.

And her many reps show up in the preternatural consistency of her dolsot bibimbap. The rice has just the right dry crackle each time, below a stew of veggies and soft grilled beef.

Nak Won's trademark haemul pajeon—a stacked-up seafood-onion pancake—is equally consistent, airily crisp and pungently intense, especially topped with its burning chili sauce that comes on the side.

Never forget to order the soondubu chigae, a vermillion soup swirling with spice and made custardy with soft tofu. As at home, eat while watching television—usually K-pop videos.

Pro tip: Don't show up near closing time and expect to be served. Lee has been cooking for long enough that she decides when she's done. Good luck telling her different.

GO: 4600 SW Watson Ave., Beaverton, 646-9382. 11 am-9 pm Monday-Thursday, 11 am-2:30 pm and 5-8:30 pm Friday-Saturday. $$.

Willamette Week

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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