12448 SW Broadway St., 641-7827, beavertonsubstation.com. Lunch Monday-Saturday.

Earlier this month, Chuck Wilson celebrated 35 years of making the best sandwiches in the Portland area. Yeah, we'll say it. Bougie spots like Bunk and Lardo have expanded across the city like kudzu, winning fawning praise from national media, but if you ask us, these humble Chicago Italian sandwiches are still the Platonic ideal of hoagiedom. We highly recommend the four-car with pastrami plus salami, cotto salami and pepperoni, which is $5.75 for a generous half, and served on crisp, fresh-baked bread from a neighboring bakery. There's a splash of oil and vinegar, a slice of provolone, the rest of the usual fixings and a house spice blend that complements the rest of the stack so well you barely take note of it.