4500 SE Stark St. (at Belmont Station), 302-545-0708. Lunch and dinner daily.

Fans of Italian Market's pork-tenderloin broccoli rabe did not have long to mourn when that cart closed up shop at venerable Stark Street beer bar Belmont Station. Monk's Deli and its chef, Andrew Heckcrote, moved right in with their own house-roasted pork sandwiches (whether with kale or capicola or ham) and other Philly-via-Delaware Italian sammies. And the sandwich that was always missing from the Market is the one at which Monk's wildly excels—an American-cheese-sopping cheesesteak ($9.25) that melds meat and cheese into some bold new substance almost relentless in its deliciousness, like an Italian queso spiced up with onions. There is perhaps no sandwich that pairs better with beer, and you can now order it from the Belmont Station bar (or directly from the cart itself) every single day until 9 pm.