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The People’s Pig

By Matthew Korfhage

Two years after he took over the former Tropicana soul-food shack, pitmaster Cliff Allen's pork loin has slipped a bit from its original earnest perfections. But the porchetta sandwich is superb. Made with a combo of roast pork loin and pork belly and massaged with a fennel-garlic rub, the meat is both pepper-spicy and deeply herbal.

GO: 3004 E Burnside St., 503-233-8941, 3217 N Williams Ave., 503-282-2800, peoplespig.com, 11 am-9 pm Sunday-Thursday, 11 am-10 pm Friday-Saturday. $.

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Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.