1. Flying Fish Co.

3004 E Burnside St., 971-806-6747, flyingfishportland.com.

For a city that's bisected by a river, Portland has a shocking scarcity of fish sandwiches on its restaurant menus. Stop searching and head straight for Flying Fish Company. The 6-ounce fillet of steelhead is prepped simply and topped with a green confetti of slightly sweet cabbage and earthy kale doused in a piquant marinade of lime, jalapeño, cilantro and Arbequina olive oil. The dressing's citrus is so bright, it will leave you vibrating like the first sunny, 70-degree day in spring.

How to order: See website.

Ranch Pizza (Henry Cromett)
Ranch Pizza (Henry Cromett)

2. Ranch Pizza

1760 NE Dekum St., 971-288-5187; 916 NW 21st Ave., 971-202-7324;
ranchpdx.com.

Whether or not you believe ranch belongs on pizza, this joint's Sicilian-style deep dish evolved from a food cart to a brick-and-mortar as a direct result of instant popularity. You're welcome to enjoy an entire pie, which includes the sausage-based cult favorite No. 4 or the aptly named Meat Tornado, but the density of the crust is all but guaranteed to put even the most hardened pizza addict in a coma by the end of just one slice. Delivery and takeout is available at the Woodlawn location and the just-opened outpost on Northwest 21st Avenue.

How to order: Call in for pickup; delivery through Caviar.

(Emily Joan Greene)
(Emily Joan Greene)

3. Quaintrelle

3936 N Mississippi Ave., 503-200-5787, quaintrelle.co.

After generating huge buzz upon opening in 2016, Quaintrelle lost some of its mojo over the ensuing years, but the New American bistro recently found new energy under chef Ryley Eckersley. Its takeout menu rotates, but recent offerings have included buttermilk fried chicken, braised lamb shank and "Dope Ass Fried Rice." What's more, the restaurant is now offering "everything but the booze" cocktail kits so you can make some of its house specials at home.

How to order: See website for prepaid pickup; delivery through Caviar.

(Emily Joan Greene)
(Emily Joan Greene)

4. Nong’s Khao Man Gai

609 SE Ankeny St., Suite C, 503-740-2907, khaomangai.com.

Starting with a food cart and working her way up to a series of restaurants, Nong Poonsukwattana became a Portland icon for her khao man gai—delicately seasoned, poached chicken on fluffy rice, served with cucumber, cilantro and sipping broth. It's an exercise in perfection and simplicity.

How to order: Caviar, DoorDash.

5. Stevens Italiano

736 SE Grand Ave., 503-801-8017, stevensitaliano.com.

Bad news: Burger Stevens, perhaps the best interpretation of a Shake Shack-style fast food burger found in Portland, is on hiatus. The good news? Owner Don Salamone has pivoted to Italian food. At Stevens Italiano—operating out of the to-go window at inner Southeast night spot Dig A Pony—families (or gluttonous singletons) can pick up huge multicourse meals headlined by red-sauce classics like manicotti, lasagna and meatball Parmigiano. The menu changes daily, and only 20 dinners are available, so check the website and plan ahead.

How to order: See website.