The Beer at Montavilla Brew Works is Good Enough That You’ll Forget the Lack of Creature Comforts Like Food and Flat Screens

Michael Kora dabbled in homebrewing for years before realizing he had the chops to make it on his own.

(Montavilla Brew Works, Julian Alexander)

7805 SE Stark St., 503-954-3440, montavillabrew.com, 3-9 pm Tuesday-Thursday, 3-10 pm Friday, noon-10 pm Saturday, noon-8 pm Sunday.

Michael Kora dabbled in homebrewing for years before realizing he had the chops to make it on his own. In 2012, he brought a batch for analysis at Bridgeport Brewing, where he worked in front of house. The quality control folks told him it far exceeded the standards for what they considered a saleable product, and that was that. Kora and his wife spent the next two years outfitting a bare-bones space that has a steam-fired brewhouse and a handful of tables and barrels to lean on. The beer is good enough that you'll soon forget the lack of creature comforts like food and flat screens. The standouts on a recent visit happened to be commissioned-brewed beers for neighbors. Academy Amber is a smooth and malty ale for the nearby second-run movie theater. East Glisan Mosaic is a vibrant beer, with loads of Mosaic, which is intended to be paired with the pies at the pizza spot a few blocks north. Kora's deft touch on Old Fellowship, a bright yet smokey barrel-aged barleywine from 2015, proves he's willing to take risks.

Nearby: Not far up Montavilla's weird mini main street, you'll find Roscoe's (8105 SE Stark St., 503-255-0049, roscoespdx.com). It's a pool hall, pinball hangout, Creole restaurant, order-in sushi spot and, above all, one of the city's very best beer bars.

Pete Cottell

Pete has written about lots of stuff.

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