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Cedo’s Falafel and Gyros

3901 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-719-7344. Lunch-dinner Tuesday-Saturday.

The mismatched throngs overtaking Cedo's each lunch hour await tastes of Palestinian native Sam Hazza's super-fresh hummus ($8) and lamb gyros ($10). Even westside carnivores swear by that first bite of the falafel sandwich, when the crackly golden exterior of house-ground and toasted coriander seeds give way to a lush, verdant chew. Order "J style" ($12) for a straight-outta-Jerusalem kick sparked by tabbouleh and fiery red sauce. $.