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1610 NW 23rd. Ave., 503-360-1281, stjackpdx.com. Dinner-late daily.
The heart of this quasi-Lyonnaise bistro is its skillet boss, Aaron Burnett. He's a Canadian with an affable demeanor who tends to keep a low profile and stick to the kitchen—and we're very lucky for it. A seasonal menu item is a good example of his hearty wheelhouse: bone marrow vierge ($19), two massive shin bone halves filled with custardy marrow, topped with chopped tomato, shallots and capers in sherry vinaigrette. $$-$$$$.