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1315 NE Fremont St., 503-477-8106, verdigrisrestaurant.com. Dinner Monday-Friday, brunch and dinner Saturday-Sunday.
Before attending to nearby Corzetti, owners Johnny and Kristina Nunn outfitted Verdigris like a darling of French country efficiency. Simple, classic, Gallic-tinged delights reward locals with a nightly prix fixe menu ($33 for three courses) and draw tout le monde for weekend brunch specialties like duck-fat-fried hash browns ($7) and Smithfield ham served with a 60-minute egg ($13), whose lengthy sous vide preparation gives perspective on the usual wait to be seated. $$$.