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The dog didn’t care for all the barking, burping and bellowing.
Not from my kids during the four-hour car ride—she’s used to that spectacle. No, it was the sights, sounds and smells of hundreds of sea lions massed off Cape Arago that so offended her urbane canine sensibilities.
I don’t blame her. This was a lot to take in. She decided to wait in the car as we took turns using binoculars to look for all the different pinnipeds that call the rocky islands just north of the cape home.
Besides the svelte California variety, you’ll often see the more humongous Steller sea lions, harbor and elephant seals, plus a multitude of sea birds and the occasional plume of a passing gray whale off this particularly scenic stretch of the Southern Oregon Coast.
Cape Arago is the last of three state parks stacked one after another on the isolated headlands behind Coos Bay. Together with Sunset Bay and Shore Acres, this coastal trifecta offers uncrowded camping, coves with critter-filled tide pools, easy hikes with spectacular views, and even a cliff-top botanical garden. Not to mention hundreds of barking sea lions that may perturb your pet, of course.
Taken together, it’s an appealing package well worth the four-hour drive from Portland.
One of the advantages to living in our city is that you can head in any direction and experience pristine nature just an hour or two away. Such abundance can make you lazy, since it’s easy to forgo trips farther away. But that’s a huge mistake when it comes to our Southern Coast.
Each summer, my family makes several trips to the Pacific Ocean. They are mostly quick jaunts or even day trips to the nearest beach towns. But every couple of years, we try to commit to exploring the southernmost reaches of Oregon’s stunning coastline.
So, we booked a campsite at Sunset Bay State Park (Cape Arago Highway, 800-551-6949, stateparks.oregon.gov), borrowed the sturdy VW camper van from our neighbors, and set off.
There are two routes to Coos Bay: You can either jet down Interstate 5 as far as Eugene and then cut over to the Pacific or you can take a more leisurely route along the coast. I usually like to drive the fast route to my destination and slowly make my way back up US Route 101—which has its own special name as the Oregon Coast Highway in the Beaver State.
So, we rattled down the freeway and, soon enough, we were making our way over the bridge leading into what has been called Oregon’s Bay Area by some aspirationally minded people. While that might be a bit overwrought, it is nice to look at, and the region retains a distinct timber-port vibe.
If you didn’t manage to pack provisions from home, this is probably your last best shot—there are several supermarkets in North Bend and Coos Bay. Once you cross the low-slung South Slough Bridge on the Cape Arago Highway, your only option is the touristy Old General Store (91133 Cape Arago Highway, 541-888-4646). If you want to cook fancy on your first night camping, be sure to check out Chuck’s Seafood (91135 Cape Arago Highway, 541-888-5525, chucksseafood.com) next door for fresh fish, crabs and oysters.
The Sunset Bay campground is a mere five-minute drive away, but if feels far more remote, since there’s no through traffic from here onward. If you’re the planning kind of camper, you can book a yurt six months in advance. Otherwise, you’ll probably have to choose between a tent site and one with an RV hookup. The campground has flush toilets and hot showers. Hosts sell firewood, so you can get your s’mores game on. And if you’re an angler, there’s even a designated place to clean your catch (or rinse your wetsuits like us).
But beyond those quotidian details is the picturesque bay that gives this place its name. Just a short stroll from your campsite is a compact sandy beach hemmed in by rocky cliffs that never feels overrun. On the right day, the water takes on an almost Caribbean turquoise hue. You could easily spend your whole time sitting here, waiting for the bay to frame the sun perfectly as it sets into the Pacific.
Or you could fill up your days with hikes of varying degrees of difficulty. Take it easy with the 1.4-mile Cape Arago Loop trail for some great views or go whole hog with the 8.6-mile Outer Loop.
Since not all trails in the area are dog friendly, we opted for hikes that led to destinations more off the beaten path. This turned out to be a great thing because we otherwise probably wouldn’t have discovered the secluded Simpson Beach, which you reach through a half mile of coastal forest. You have to hop over a small creek feeding into the ocean before you emerge in a pretty cove looking out at waves crashing into sea stacks.
That same day, we turned inland to hunt for the ruins of World War II fortifications. Hidden amongst the huge trees, these small radar bunkers were intended to keep watch for a Japanese attack on the U.S. mainland. Now roofless, you can find them a short walk from the road just before the Simpson Reef Overlook with those barky sea lions. Or make them part of a longer loop toward the cape.
For a change of pace, head over to the state park next to Sunset Bay. Now a surprising place to find a botanical garden, Shore Acres (89526 Cape Arago Highway, 541-888-3732, shoreacres.net) was once the sprawling estate of timber baron Louis J. Simpson. Full of roses and rhododendrons, this curated garden even features a lily pond. Entrance to the garden is free, but you do have to pay $10 to park. No dogs allowed.
The third state park is Cape Arago (Terminus of Cape Arago Highway, 541-888-3778, stateparks.oregon.gov) itself. This is the end of the line for cars, but steep trails here lead down to north and south sandy coves with fantastic tide pools to explore and huge boulders jutting out into the sea. We had a great time spending hours just poking around, occasionally checking in with each other. With the sea lions safely lounging around the point, even our city dog was happy.
Though there’s plenty to see and do within the three state parks, I should also mention nearby Bastendorff Beach. Just a few minutes away, it’s a great spot if you’re looking for a broader stretch of sand for kite flying, surfing or just a long walk.
When was the last time you were south of Newport? If it’s been a while, consider adding another couple of hours to your drive this summer. The sea lions are calling.
Where to stay:
Not into camping at Sunset Bay? Try the quirky themed rooms at the Itty Bitty Inn (1504 Sherman Ave., 541-756-6398, ittybittyinn.com) right on Route 101 in North Bend. I’d probably pick the Star Trek room with its campy DIY Enterprise controls, but you can also choose from tiki lounge, Grateful Dead or ’70s disco themes. Got cash to spend? Bay Point Landing (92443 Cape Arago Highway, 541-351-9160, baypointlanding.com) has sleek modern cabins, Airstream suits, and a clubhouse with an indoor pool. It’s just 15 minutes from Cape Arago.
Where to eat:
Just outside the state parks in Charleston is the Persephone Cafe & Bakery (91152 Cape Arago Highway, 541-808-2500, seacoastgarden.com/cafe-bakery), which offers artisan baked goods adjacent to the Sea Coast Garden & Gift Shop. The 7 Devils Brewery (1240 N Bayshore Drive, 541-808-2699, 7devilsbrewery.com) in central Coos Bay offers farm-to-table brewpub fare with relaxing bayside views. If you need a coffee and a muffin on the way out of Coos Bay, try So It Goes Coffeehouse (190 Central Ave., 541-808-9333, soitgoescoffee.com) downtown.
This story is part of Oregon Summer Magazine, our annual guide to refreshing destinations, cool escapes, and the best ways to stay hydrated all summer long. See more stories from Oregon Summer Magazine here, or check this map to see where you can pick up a free copy of the magazine.
