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S’mores know no season in the Pacific Northwest. Experienced outdoor enthusiasts can start a campfire in any weather, with roasted marshmallows and chocolate melting onto graham crackers with a kiss of woodsmoke. Downtown Portland probably isn’t the first place that comes to mind where you can enjoy the treat—the “Portland’s on fire” crowd is usually too scared to stick around and roast marshmallows over our embers—but now there are two cafes devoted to a s’mores-gasbord of flavors. Both offer elevated recipes enhanced with less traditional (but no less tasty) ingredients, and both require wet naps and no fear about eating messy, sloppy sweets.
Toasted S’mores Bar (1126 SW Alder St., 971-383-2893, toastedsmoresbar.com) opened downtown last January in a small, dark cafe near the Hyatt hotel. It specializes in bespoke s’mores scorched on the spot with a blow torch, as well as to-go kits to re-create the magic on the road (a hot chocolate menu offers similarly inspired choices like peppermint or caramel apple and to-go cocoa mixes). Of its seasonal menu, the Busy Bee ($6) seemed most appetizing with espresso and honey along with the usual vanilla marshmallow and dark chocolate. The safe combination proved reliably satisfying with a flavorful touch of the outdoor seared into the last bite.
Though Toasted can make its s’mores in gluten-free formats for an upcharge, Marsh & Mallow Co (Director Park, 815 SW Park Ave., 614-406-0165, marshandmallowco.com) serves them that way by default. The catering-based business has set its shingle on the glass cafe structure in Director Park starting Jan. 28. Toasted’s graham crackers are a little closer in crunchy consistency to the classic elementary school snack than M&M, but the latter is a touch crumblier. It offers four seasonal s’mores: berry cheesecake, P.B. Twix, a vegan option and a pickles and peanut butter one (all $6.75). Since its regular flavors are $6 each or two for $10, it might be a smarter buy to get the Taste of S’moregon over the Berry Cheesecake, as it’s a little cheaper and comes with chocolate. The Pickles & Peanut Butter is adventurous but not as outright disgusting as one might hope. A pickle-flavored marshmallow cuts down on the typical sweetness (not a brined marshmallow, un/fortunately), but the cracker’s inescapable sugar doesn’t make this an entirely savory snack. Still, M&M offers seating, which is lacking at Toasted even as a stool, so that must be commended.
If you’re not afraid to smear chocolate or marshmallow on your face in public, s’mores aren’t a bad midday or early-evening urban pick-me-up. If your idea of glamping is staying on the couch, or if you’re hibernating while you prepare for your next excursion, s’mores will get you in the mood for adventure in downtown Portland.
