Restaurant Guide 2008

This hip, modern and elegantly sparse upstairs space draws loyal fans of sushi, sake and socializing. Other than its happenin' happy-hour scene, Masu has long been known to carve up some of the best-quality fish flown into town and turn it into esoteric sashimi, pristine nigiri and jewel-studded, artistic sushi rolls. The sushi chefs at Masu raise commonplace rolls to a higher standard, going so far as to make their mayonnaise daily. Try the flaming St. Helen's Volcano, a perfect formula of smoky-sweet crab, shrimp and avocado, or the sassy spicy Japanista with tuna and seared hamachi. Fish is always fresh and elegantly prepared. The full menu offers Japanese-inspired starters, salads and entrees, like a thin-sliced seared tuna with ponzu and confit of carrots—tasty enough, but not worth passing on sushi for. Masu has an extensive selection of sake and a short wine list.

IDEAL MEAL: Miso soup, Holy Kobe roll, eel and avocado hand roll.

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