Cheap Eats 2011: Pho Hung

Off-white and rust-streaked outside, mottled purple and Denny's-esque in, Pho Hung is, by all appearances, another Southeast Powell Boulevard eatery to drive by. If you do stop to eat at this pho joint, though, you'll forgive it for looking so bland—see, they've gone and put all their flavor into the food. My meal at Pho Hung was my first experience with the Vietnamese national dish, and not wanting to be revealed as a pho newbie, I fearlessly ordered a challenging-sounding variation involving tendon and tripe. The server, in a merciful and face-saving move, pointedly suggested one with eye of round steak and well-done flank ($7 small, $7.50 large)—under the menu's "For Beginners" heading. The thin-sliced meat was succulently infused with the beef-bone broth, which in turn was infused with an unusual, at turns bitter and spicy, blend of star anise, green onion, parsley and ginger. The kicker? The portions: You won't get this much food for $7.50 practically anywhere else.

WWeek 2015

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