Cheap Eats 2011: Pupuseria El Buen Gusto

The pupusa is El Salvador's answer to grilled cheese. A starchy outer layer—in this case, thick corn tortillas—surrounds a creamy, gooey mess of cheese. But don't stop at queso. Pupuseria El Buen Gusto offers a vast slate of fillings, including pork so soft it almost melts, and loroco, an edible flower reminiscent of broccoli. This immaculate, pumpkin-walled joint features plastic tablecloth covers and a menu hand-scrawled on neon poster board, but don't underestimate the food. In addition to pupusas ($3-$4), there's a selection of enchiladas, tacos and tamales ($2.50-$7.75). The flaky corn tamal has a welcome sweetness. If you really wanna go for it (you did haul out to 82nd, after all), get some atole de elote ($2.50), a sweet drink made from maize meal and milk, to complement your hearty pupusa. It's warm and rich and thick, almost custardlike, and spiced with a liberal dose of cinnamon. Eat it with a spoon.

WWeek 2015

Rebecca Jacobson

Rebecca Jacobson is a writer from Portland (OK, she was born in Seattle but has been in Oregon since the day after she turned 10) who's also lived in Berlin, Malawi and Rhode Island. While on staff at Willamette Week, she covered theater, film, bikes, drug dealers-turned-barbers and little-known scraps of local history.

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