Bar Guide 2014: Luchador


4835 N Albina Ave., 517-9347, 5 pm-1 am Sunday-Wednesday, 5 pm-2 am Thursday-Saturday.

There's an obvious metaphor that applies to Trebol's rebranding as Luchador. Here, an unspectacular Mexican restaurant dons a mask and transforms into a loungy margarita bar. But Luchador doesn't have nearly the level of commitment of true luchadores. Really, it's the same place with a new logo. Trebol's Kenny Hill and new partner Justin King have adjusted the menu toward smaller plates and refocused the emphasis on cocktails. But other than the single row of wall-mounted masks, the atmosphere is still more "pretentious dinner spot" than "laid-back watering hole." The drinks are fine—the blood-orange margarita is fruity without being overpowering, and the chile de árbol-infused Chupacabra burns without leaving a mark—but this can't help but feel like a missed opportunity. MATTHEW SINGER.

Happy Hour: 6-7 pm daily. $1 PBR and tequila shots.
Entertainment: Pool, patio.

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