1411 NW Flanders St., 224-1700, 10barrel.com. 11 am-11 pm Sunday-Thursday, 11 am-midnight Friday-Saturday.

I really wanted to hate 10 Barrel's new Portland brewpub. Last year, Bend's 10 Barrel Brewing sold to Anheuser-Busch while in the process of opening this new brewery helmed by former Pelican brewmaster Whitney Burnside. But goddamn it, I liked the place. Situated a few blocks from Fat Head's in what's fast becoming one of Portland's better beer 'hoods, the bright, wide-open pub stands at the pinnacle of contemporary brewery chic, with lots of concrete and rough-hewn wood arranged around an open brewhouse. The menu is similar to what you find at the Bend branch, with pizzas and $13 "nachos" consisting of a mountain of housemade potato chips topped with steak and Gorgonzola. And the first beer from its new system, Pearl IPA, is perfectly bitter, slightly hazy and excellently crafted. I won't be back soon, because I am a purist, but I won't ruin a good thing for you, either. Don't hate the player, hate the game.

Entertainment: The moral quandaries.