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4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 233-1286. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday.
The buzz continues even though there's often a wait for a table, early closings due to dough shortages and stringent rules about toppings (no more than three on any pie). All the hype is for good reason: The cult-worthy pies ($17-$22) here are the size of a Hyundai and feature a crackly-yet-chewy crust, oozing mozzarella, and sausage from local Viande Meats. Add to that the gigantic Caesar salads ($7) and extensive beer list, and you can taste why there's such a fuss about this pizzeria in this pizza ghost town. (IM)
Aqui Mexican
1408 SE 12th Ave., 230-9212. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, dinner Saturday (lunch Saturdays during the summer).
This boisterously decorated dining room and (mini) bar somehow make room for Virgin Mary icons, a big TV screening Blazers games and speakers pumping Eminem. Maybe it's the cafe's strong, puckery margaritas that make it all work together. Eat for days off massive portions of refined Mexican standards, from earthy enchiladas ($8.95) and plates of piquant fish tacos ($8.95) to a sharable carne asada salad ($10.95) as big as a child's head, bursting with radishes and perfectly grilled steak. And make room for beer-battered jalapeños ($7.95) stuffed with lava-hot, creamy goat cheese and spicy bits of chorizo. Frankly, the only things as sweet and sassy as Aqui's staff are the über-moist onion- and corn-studded muffins that arrive with most of this neat cantina's dishes. (KC)
Arabian Breeze
3223 NE Broadway, 445-4700. Lunch and dinner daily.
Less than a year old, Arabian Breeze is a small piece of the Middle East in the middle of the Northwest. Amid the brightly colored lanterns and arabesque tiles, you'll find an extensive menu of Lebanese fare and equally charming service. Prepare your taste buds with the sambousik, doughy half-moon pastries filled with your choice of ground lamb, spinach or goat cheese ($5.50). Riz be-tfeen (a mix of garbanzo beans, pine nuts and exotic spices slow-cooked with tender lamb pieces, $8.75) is served over flavorful jasmine rice. The "family recipe" layered custard ($4.75) and the fact that the place now takes credit cards makes eating a meal here nothing short of sweet. And don't forget the hookahs! (EB)
Arawan
9610 SE 82nd Ave., 788-3066; 700 SE 160th Ave., Vancouver, Wash., (360) 882-8118. Lunch and dinner daily.
This fresh-food, choice-filled oasis is nestled among the mega-chains of Southeast 82nd Avenue represented by clowns, kings and faux Australian accents. Arawan's authentic Thai cuisine is extensive, so start off easy with an appetizer combination plate ($5.95-$6.95) you construct yourself with items such as shrimp-stuffed salad rolls, fish cakes and Dungeness crab wontons. The curries are diverse ($7.95-$11.95), the noodle dishes too numerous to mention—four variations of pad Thai alone ($7.95 each)—and the stir-fry choices are extremely creative ($7.95). How spicy? That's up to you, too. (JL)
Auténtica
5507 NE 30th Ave., 287-7555. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday, brunch and dinner Saturday-Sunday.
This small, Killingsworth-area outpost offers Mexican cuisine with the soul of home cooking. Pair octopus with red onion and serrano peppers ($7) with a few spiced-pork tacos ($1.50 each) for a full meal. The mole teloloapan served over a half-chicken ($13) has eight kinds of chilies. Weekend brunch has soulful chilaquiles ($8), strips of fried corn tortillas topped with crema alongside a small, juicy grilled steak. Occasional waits for food and sincere but uncertain service smack of a restaurant still trying to find its footing, but the lush food is payback enough. (IM)
Baan-Thai
1924 SW Broadway, 224-8424. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.
You can always tell a great Thai joint by its peanut sauce. And this popular Portland State University hangout doesn't disappoint, with a version you'd be just as happy to eat alone with a soup spoon or poured on a vast selection of curries, stir-fries and regional specialties. For real flavor, opt for the Thai Jungle ($8.50-$12.50), a generous plate of steamed veggies and meat in an avalanche of nutty goodness. Fresh salad rolls ($4) offer tightly bundled vegetables, while the som tum salad ($8) delivers a lip-tingly blend of papaya, chilies, dried shrimp and lime. (CM)
Bakery Bar
1028 SE Water Ave., 546-8110. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Saturday.
With a case full of exquisite-looking cakes and pastries, a lunch menu that's both faster and cheaper than clarklewis across the street, and Stumptown coffee on offer, Bakery Bar is something of an oasis in the gritty eastside industrial district. Helpful counter people serve lovingly fashioned pastries, from a five-spice carrot cupcake to a scone with fennel and golden raisins (both $2.25). The food is well above standard coffeehouse fare, including fresh deli sandwiches and soups with fun, housemade cheese crackers (all under $6.25). (KD)
Baraka Bar
1824 NE Alberta St., 331-1824. Dinner and late-night Wednesday-Sunday.
The decor is more theme-club than restaurant, but the kitchen turns out dishes brimming with toasted spices, sour tamarind and rich coconut milk. Huge samosas ($6) are an impressive start. The mas dosa ($8), a rice-flour crêpe filled with a lusty combination of spices and potatoes, is an authentic taste of southern India. Baraka may not look like a serious paean to Indian cuisine, but it sure tastes like it. (IM)
Beaterville Cafe
2201 N Killingsworth St., 735-4652. Breakfast and lunch daily.
Popular on weekend mornings with NoPo locals and nearby University of Portland students (and, on a recent visit, their parents), Beaterville Cafe does breakfast with style and a nod to classic cars. The Thunderbird scramble ($8.50) is a beauty—think of it as the club sandwich of egg dishes, with bacon, turkey and all the fixins. The Mini Cooper—turkey sausage, eggs and cheese in between a fluffy buscuit, all for a meager $6—is a sammie that salutes inventive eating and modern automotive design. (KP)
Bella Faccia Pizzeria
2934 NE Alberta St., 282-0600. Lunch and dinner daily.
Bella Faccia's cracker-thin crust, which you can't help but break off a bit to taste before you handle your slice, comes dressed with ingredients that will satisfy any hangover craving for grease, spice and zing. May we recommend the Swine and Pine ($20 for a pie, $3.25 a slice), a Hawaiian pizza with the daring addition of smoked mozzarella with the standard pineapple and Canadian bacon? The real news is the vegan pie, a miraculous concoction that's neither desperate imitation nor tasteless substitute. It's an animal of its own—roasted pepper-cashew-tomato base, leafy greens and other fresh veggies, plus grilled tempeh on top ($23 a pie, $3.25 a slice). (AV)
Besaw's Cafe
2301 NW Savier St., 228-2619. Breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday; brunch Sunday.
Brunch is the big star at this cozy Northwest cafe, where classy offerings like the house-smoked wild-salmon scramble ($9.50) lure sleepy-eyed Portlanders in droves. As fluffy and tempting as the Belgian waffles ($5.50) are, homestyle American lunch items like the exquisitely adorned house burger ($8) should not be overlooked. Bump it up to first class with bleu cheese and bacon or sautéed mushrooms and Swiss for only a buck. (KD)
Bijou, Cafe
32 SW 3rd Ave., 222-3187. Breakfast and lunch daily.
Late-risers can still get their morning meal at comma chameleon Bijou, Cafe. Snag a seat at the sparkling, expansive counter or slide into one of the tables covered in blue-checkered cloth and order a fresh-squeezed organic orange or grapefruit juice ($3.50) while you peruse the menu to decide if you're feelin' breakfast or lunch. And any restaurant that serves three different kinds of Tabasco with the already-spicy mushroom hash ($9.75)? Just fine with us. (CM)
Biscuits Cafe
5137 NE Sandy Blvd., 288-8271; 8605 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, 297-1310; 19273 Molalla Ave., Oregon City, 655-3612; 16775 SW Baseline Road, Beaverton, 614-2876; 11500 NE 76th St., Vancouver, Wash., (360) 253-8539. Breakfast and lunch daily.
As if a giant biscuit exploded and scattered its crumbs all over the metro area (like the white goo of the Stay-Puft marshmallow man at the end of Ghostbusters), this five-location local chain has probably already taken over a nondescript storefont near you. Inside, chipper servers bring bright, mismatched and overflowing plates of sweet-potato pancakes, daily specials loaded with fruit and powdered sugar, rainbow-medley omelettes, and biscuits ($4-$6 with gravy, $2.50 with jelly) that are worth naming a restaurant—or a firstborn child—after. Bring on the world domination! (MS)
Blossoming Lotus
925 NW Davis St., 228-0048. Breakfast, lunch and early dinner daily.
Is it the kicky apple-lemon-ginger juice ($3.50) at this vegan cafe inside Yoga in the Pearl? Or the giant Southwestern Salud salad ($6) with black beans, rice, avocado and romaine? Or the delectable—and rhyming!—pâté of the day served with flax crackers (on our visit it was cashew hummus, $5). Whether you're coming off a hot-yoga high or just wandering in off the street, Blossoming Lotus inspires you to savor every bite and ohm with pleasure. (CM)
Blue Nile
2225 NE Broadway, 284-4653. Lunch and dinner daily.
The Blue Nile is a study in contradictions: lace curtains and a blaring television, delicious food and slow service. The authentic Ethiopian cuisine starts with the perfectly bouncy teff-based enjera bread that serves as both a platter and a utensil. Piled on top of the enjera are compellingly spiced wats (stews) of chicken, beef, lamb or lentils. The Blue Nile combination ($10) or vegetarian combo ($9) gives neophytes and the undecided lots to explore. (MW)
La Bonita
2839 NE Alberta St., 281-3662. Lunch and dinner daily.
This Mexican gem on gentrifying Northeast Alberta Street offers a scene that's muy auténtico and a menu that's plenty barato for the money-conscious. For breakfast, the huevos con chorizo ($5) are a satisfying, meaty start to the day. And for lunch, get an extra fork so your favorite gringa can help dig into the wonderfully oversized bean-and- cheese burrito special ($6.95) with a green-chile sauce that packs a punch. Looking to venture into gluttony? Order a side of chips and salsa ($2.50) or quesadillas ($3) to make sure you're in full waddle when you say, "Adios, amigos." (HS)
Bread and Ink Cafe
3610 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 239-4756. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Looking for a quiet break from frenetic Hawthorne Boulevard? Pop into this Southeast stalwart noted for the ink drawings hung on its walls and for its breakfast offerings, including exceptional blintzes ($7.85). There's a nice mix of pastas and meats to sample on the dinner menu as well. Start the evening with a sweet mojito ($4-$6.50), then crunch into the pan-fried oysters ($9.50) off the list of starters. (HS).
BridgePort Ale House
3632 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 233-6540. Lunch and dinner daily, late-night Monday-Saturday.
Hard to go wrong in a place that serves up 20 ounces of its own smooth Ropewalk Amber Ale for $3.50. But BridgePort also has a worthy selection of pub food, like the juicy Hawthorne burger ($7.50), a filling selection that's more burger than bun. A BLT with smoked salmon and pepper bacon ($7.50) is sure to gin up even a teetotaler's beer-drinking thirst. Kettle chips are offered with all sandwiches and burgers, if you're at all worried about low salt intake. Got kids? Give 'em either the child's adult-size portion of mac and cheese ($4) or a grilled cheese sandwich ($3). (HS)
La Buca
40 NE 28th Ave., 238-1058. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, dinner Saturday-Sunday.
Looking for a great romantic spot that won't break your wallet? La Buca serves up casual class at amazingly reasonable prices. You can start with a spinach salad piled with olives and feta under a whisper of lemon-infused olive oil ($3.50) and then fill up with rich, garlicky linguini alfredo ($6.75) and part with little more than a Hamilton. Every pasta on offer is under $10, even after you add extra fixins like roasted chicken or spicy sausage. If you're in a sandwich mood, choose from seven different panini ($6.75-$7). (ID)
Byways Cafe
1212 NW Glisan St., 221-0011. Breakfast and lunch daily.
For those of us who do not suffer from Automobile Ownership, Northwest's Byways Cafe offers all of that affliction's positive side effects. The walls are cluttered with tourist plates, suitcases hover above the counter, and View-Masters on the tables let Junior experience a faux road trip. And then there is the food, more hearty heartland than greasy spoon. The breakfasts can appear unconquerable, like the Herculean pile of potatoes, cheese, veggies and corned beef known as the Mount Rushmore Hash ($7.75). The lunch menu offers thick sandwiches, like the Turnpike, a delicious avocado-embellished BLT with turkey ($8.25). And then there are the thick, old-school milkshakes ($3.75), which bike riders and walkers will burn off easily. (MB)
Cadillac Cafe
1801 NE Broadway, 287-4750. Breakfast and lunch daily.
It's hard to really discern what this place is going for: Imagine a magical land aesthetically reminiscent of the '50s, where Creole jambalaya ($9.95), Greek salad ($9.25), turkey quesadillas ($7.75) and schinken au bracken ($8.50) all live together in perfect harmony. Call it indecisiveness or call it the American Dream—whatever your take on the dogma behind this hodgepodge eatery, you're bound to agree that Cadillac Cafe is damn good. For a dish that epitomizes Cadillac's "I'm Every Restaurant" motif, try the market chicken salad ($9.75), an unlikely combination of grilled chicken, carrots, bananas, grapes, roasted hazelnuts, jack cheese and greens, all dressed up in a tangy blueberry vinaigrette. (JD)
Cali Sandwiches
6620 NE Glisan St., 254-9842. Lunch and early dinner Monday-Saturday.
Everyone knows about places like this—the cupboard-sized, no-frills, somewhat cryptic ethnic joint next to the Plaid Pantry. "They say it's good," you might remark. Or, "Huh, that's the place my buddy Trev goes for $2 sandwiches." Well, wonder no more, intrepid eaters: This tiny outlet for Vietnamese bahn mi is a hidden gem. Dirt-cheap (multi-meat sandwiches made with big crusty loves of fresh French bread run from $2.50 to $3.50), cheerful despite its mini-strip-mall location and staffed by very friendly, competent kids, Cali should remain a mysterious secret of Portland food lore no more. (ZD)
Cannon's Rib Express
5410 NE 33rd Ave., 288-3836. Lunch and dinner daily.
The heat lamps at this outside-only rib shack are pretty pointless in the middle of a blowing winter storm. Even in such cranky-making conditions, the barbecue here is worth putting the pedal to wet metal. Almost everything—toothsome ribs and hearty chicken, is smoked, then grilled, then drowned in a bath of sweet and spicy sauce—which has a nostril-tickling tanginess. Dinners ($11-$13) come with bread and two sides. Campbell's cornbread muffins are just by the book, so try the airy white bread instead to sop up the juices. (AV)
Cathedral Park Cafe
6635 N Baltimore Ave., 285-5080. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday.
With a new Anna Bannana's coffee shop and two (two!) places to watch a movie while drinking a beer, St. Johns is certainly getting ready for its close-up. The most glorious setting to watch this slumbering neighborhood's renaissance, though, may be the deck of the Cathedral Park Cafe, tucked into the maze of design firms and creative workspaces in an old Columbia Sportswear facility (the kind of building that will make you want to film a horror movie there). The light-lunch soups ($3-$4), sandwiches ($4-$8.75) and quiches ($3 a slice) at the sun-filled cafe may not be the most filling, but you also get to drink in the view of the majestic St. Johns Bridge towering above and Forest Park just over the river. (MS)
Chez Machin
3553 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 736-9381. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Saturday-Sunday.
While the main attraction at this Hawthorne crêperie is of course the crêpes, Chez Machin boasts a menu that gives its own stuffed pancakes a run for their money. Try another French classic, a grilled but not greasy croque monsieur ($7.50). The ham-and-cheese sandwich is served with a gorgeous, leafy salad that gives a preview to other, more sophisticated greens on the menu like the rock shrimp and avocado Salade Bistro ($6.25-$9.25). Pair it with a light European beer and have a seat in the back sunporch for an out-of-Portland (and country) experience. (KP)
Clay's Smokehouse Grill
2932 SE Division St., 235-4755. Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday.
The real deal for barbecue in Southeast. Clay's serves up stout sandwiches and hearty, Southern-style platters with great sides, like kick-ass slaw and homefries with garlic sauce. Beware: The honey-cured pork-loin sandwich ($8.75)—piled high with bleu cheese, crispy Granny Smith apples and tasty garlic mayo—may seriously alter a light eater's outlook on life. Bargain hunters can get their grub on from 11 am to 4 pm on Saturdays and Sundays, when tender smoked chicken wings are 50 cents each and 10-ounce Buds are only a buck. (JD)
Criollo Bakery
4727 NE Fremont St., 335-9331. Breakfast, lunch and early dinner Tuesday-Saturday, breakfast and lunch Sunday.
Decisions, decisions. Sidestep the strollers at family-friendly Criollo and nibble a few fresh-bread samples while you peruse the menu. You really can't go wrong, from the baby green or Caesar salads ($5-$6) to the vegetarian open-faced baguette ($6.75), which blends roasted garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, olives, caramelized onions and goat cheese. Portions won't spoil your appetite for dessert—especially anything chocolate, like the decadent double-chocolate pecan cookies ($1.75 each). (CM)
Cup and Saucer
3566 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 236-6001; 3000 NE Killingsworth St., 287-4427. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Sure this Hawthorne hotspot is buzzing with as many hipsters as fruit flies, but there are still plenty of reasons to head down. Vegetarians and vegans will dig on this all-day breakfast joint's tofu egg-substitute, along with a laundry list of other V-friendly dishes, including an array of grilled sandwiches. Meat eaters should spy the specials board for one of the best Reubens in town ($7-$7.50). No Reuben? No worries. There's plenty to choose from, including delicious breakfast sandwiches ($6.25). Reading material (perhaps from Powell's across the street) is a requirement: light reading for long waits on weekends and the heavy stuff for slow weekdays when you can sip your coffee and take in some of Portland's heaviest foot-traffic. (MB)
Delta Cafe
4607 SE Woodstock Blvd., 771-3101. Dinner and late-night daily.
Decked out in what can best be described as ecumenical indie-kitsch, this Woodstock staple has a homey campus vibe and an earnest staff. Not as menacingly rich as you might think, the Southern fare notches points on down-home items like Catfish Bites ($8) with a fairly subtle aioli and rémoulade, a sharp grown-up mac-and-cheese ($4.50), earthy Creole gumbo ($11), and an edgy chopped barbecue pork po'boy sandwich with slaw and rémoulade ($8). (TD)
Detour Cafe
3035 SE Division St., 234-7499. Breakfast and lunch daily.
The sunny, clean aesthetic of this eastside eatery, with its apple-green walls and well-scrubbed hipster staff, is the perfect ambience for its food: a selection of impossibly fresh frittatas, sandwiches and salads peppered with seasonal veggies, homemade sides and Stumptown-only coffee. It's organic eating without being annoying—and it's good. Try the Original ($6.50), a savory scrambled-egg sandwich with cream cheese, tomatoes, basil and pepper bacon wrapped in sweet-potato focaccia. Not only is it fresh and delicious, the sandwich is also delightfully un-messy, a selling point for the neatnik who likes a tidy breakfast experience. (LS)
DiPrima Dolci
1936 N Killingsworth St., 283-5936. Breakfast and lunch daily, early dinner Tuesday-Friday.
This Italian-style bakery succinctly reflects the inconsistent ambitions of North Portland. Or more to the point: It's almost there, but not quite. On one Sunday morn, bakery cases were half- to near-empty, and a breakfast special—a lightly warmed spinach frittata advertised with fruit and taters ($5)—came sans the spuds. That said, one bite of a sweet and savory ham-and-cheese bun ($3.50) will help you forget what this place lacks in regularity and understand why you'll find long lines at the counter on the weekend. Soup, salads and tasty antipasti, too. (BB)
Doris' Cafe
3606 N Williams Ave., 460-2595. Lunch and dinner daily.
A soul-food staple that dropped off the radar when its original North Russell Street location changed hands a few years ago, Doris' reopened in a yellow house on North Williams Avenue. Judging by the sleepy feel of a recent lunch visit, the eating public hasn't quite found its way back. Word to the wise: If you love savory, massive piles of ribs ($7.25 lunch, $11.50 dinner), awe-inspiring greens ($3) and pungent fried okra ($3.50), you need to get down to this austere-but-welcoming embassy of Southern eating. (ZD)
Dots
2521 SE Clinton St., 235-0203. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily.
Though a lack of windows, ultra-dim lighting and puffs of smoke coming from the bar might suggest otherwise, Dots' quirkily (velvet Elvises, Jesus candles, etc.) adorned dining room is family-friendly—really!—until 10 o'clock, when a "no minors allowed" policy kicks in. The menu at this inner Southeast hotspot works for kids, too, as Dots is known for its heaping plates of crispy, cheesy fries (yummy, $4.50 and up). Don't worry, grown-ups—the cocktail menu, an oozy Reuben sandwich ($7.50), and a jukebox in favor of indie rock supports an adult-sized palate. (KP)
Equinox
830 N Shaver St., 460-3333. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday, breakfast and lunch Saturday-Sunday.
Equinox flies all over the map with its seasonal rotating menu, pairing ingredients like linguine, tandoori shrimp and coconut cream ($13). These transatlantic missteps can leave your taste buds a little jetlagged. But when the Equinox gets it right—as it does with most of the meatier, more-down-to-earth dishes and meal-sized appetizers such as tempura calamari ($8)—it's hard to beat this North Mississippi establishment's pairing of casual savoir flair with killer cocktails. (BB)
Escape from New York Pizza
622 NW 23rd Ave., 227-5423. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily.
There ain't much to this Northwest pizzeria aside from pizza, beer and its New York attitude. The slices are thin, the sauce is thick, the cheese is cheesy, the veggies are plentiful and fresh, and, for purists, the whole package is completely foldable. Oh yeah, and it's cheap, too (slices start at $2.25). While the stand-in-line-stare-at-New-York-bric-a-brac-grab-a-stool set-up isn't anything like modern NYC, the packrat aesthetic is closer to the '70s melting-pot grit of that city than the current capital of commerce could ever conjure. (MB)
Eugenios
3584 SE Division St., 233-3656. Breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.
Customers at the cozy, extremely friendly Eugenios have become junkies for the Ultron Get-A-Long meatball sandwich ($7.50). One bite and you'll see why people show up at the same time every day for a fix. Smothered in marinara, caked with melted mozzarella and packed with spicy, handmade meatballs the size of a cat's head, it's almost intimidating. The sandwich made the cook here give up vegetarianism. Tasty pizzas, panini, soups and microbrews are available for non-junkies (and herbivores). (AK)
Fat Albert's
6668 SE Milwaukie Ave., 872-9822. Breakfast daily.
With a definite nod to big portions, this classic breakfast diner wants to make you just as fat as Albert. Although it's not all that fancy, it does all the standards right. And, man, does it load them up: Biscuits & gravy ($4.50), French toast ($5), and the bottomless bowl of oatmeal ($4) are all hefty-sized. The fluffy three-egg omelettes ($6-$8.50) tip the scale, too. The Salad Eater omelette is laden with fresh spinach, tomatoes, red onion, mushrooms and real, flavorful Swiss. And the friendly staff won't let your coffee ($1.50) go dry, either. (JL)
Fat Kitty Falafel
2016 SE Division St., fatkitty.biz. Lunch Tuesday-Saturday.
Four dollars buys you finely textured falafel balls fried right before your eyes, a choice of sauces (try the delicious cilantro- and garlic-laced yogurt) and a rambling succession of stories by Mr. Fat Kitty (owner Al Herre). Amusing and delicious, but alas, the cart is exposed to the Northwest's dreadful clammy elements. We eagerly await the construction of a warm and toasty Fat Kitty Falafel Palace. (IM)
Fire on the Mountain
4225 N Interstate Ave., 280-9464. Lunch and dinner daily, late-night Friday-Saturday.
Most Saturdays, we wake up with one thing on our minds: FOTM. The housemade sauces these farm fresh wings ($5.95 for six) are tossed in—for heaven's sake, try the Spicy Peanut—are the stuff dreams are made of. Wash down spicier varieties with local brews from Amnesia or Roots, and round things out with yummy sweet-tater fries ($4.95) or onion rings ($5.95). Twinkies are even thrown in the fryer for an added chunk of gooey heaven. Yikes, almighty! (AM)
Flying Elephants
812 SW Park Ave., 546-3166. Breakfast, lunch and early dinner daily.
Soupivores will love this abbreviated, downtown version of uptown's tony Elephants Delicatessen. Offerings include pre-made sandwiches ($5.95-$6.25) like tuna and roast beef, a variety of salads ($6.50-$6.95), and a daily hot comfort-food entree ($4.75-$5.50) like mac and cheese or lasagne. But it's the totally addictive soups ($2.25 cup, $3.95 bowl with bread), such as the signature tomato-orange and Mama Leone's Chicken, that make it a struggle to find a seat at lunchtime. Baked goods, including baguettes ($2.50) and very rich brownies ($1.95), will not disappoint, either. Beer, wine and overpriced soft drinks are also available. (JC)
Fold Crêperie
2921 NE Alberta St., 750-1415. Brunch Saturday-Sunday. Also open Last Thursday.
At Fold, it's all about what's inside: butter with a squeeze of lime and a sprinkle of cayenne ($4) takes a Southern departure from the traditional French filling. So do savory dishes, like the buckwheat crêpe filled with jack cheese, tomato, lime and basil in buckwheat for $6. The hipster-rustic ambience—decor includes antique school desks and local craftiness—sets the mood for a romantic brunch or a solo date with The New York Times. A pot of French-press coffee ($2-$6) features beans from the smallest-batch roaster in P-town.(AV)
Fong Chong
301 NW 4th Ave., 228-6868. Dim sum and lunch daily, dinner Wednesday-Monday.
Portland's favorite greasy chopstick: The utilitarian dining room done up in pink formica and wood paneling is filled on weekends with families feasting from the train of rattling dim sum carts that offer up everything from mundane egg rolls ($2.20) to exotic lotus leaf-wrapped sticky rice with pork ($3.75). A long menu of Chinese favorites like barbecue duck with egg-noodle soup ($6.50) is available for those who prefer to know exactly what they're getting. Just remember to pace yourself. (IM)
Ford's on 5th
121 NW 5th Ave., 226-2828. Lunch and early dinner Monday-Thursday; lunch, dinner and late-night Friday-Saturday.
Every item on the menu—from the cheesesteak sandwich ($5.50-$7.50) to the meatball hero ($5.50-$6.50) to the burgers ($6.50) to the coleslaw side (50 cents)—is a reason to chow down here. Don't go if you're in a hurry, because everything is cooked to order, from the thinly sliced steak, to the certified Angus beef burgers. But it's all worth the wait. (DW)
Fuller's Coffee Shop
136 NW 9th Ave., 222-5608. Breakfast and lunch daily. Cash only.
The moment you step inside this tiny diner, you'll feel like you've tapped your ruby slippers and left the Pearl behind. With bona fide comfort food like housemade white bread, BLTs ($5.50) and milkshakes ($3.95), Fuller's doesn't have much in common with its newbie, more upscale neighbors—and that's OK with us. The fish and chips ($7.50) is also delish, particularly because the fries are giant rectangular slabs of potatoes cooked to perfection. So find a seat at the counter (there are no tables at Fuller's) and eat 'til your blood pressure rises. It's well worth it. (LP)
Genies
1101 SE Division St., 445-9777. Breakfast and lunch daily.
If you manage to stumble out of bed before noon on the weekends, head to this hipper-than-hip joint for one of the most honest breakfasts in town. Try either savory eggs Benedict ($7.75) or chicken sausage hash ($8.25), all served with crispy, dreamy home fries; don't forget a blood-orange mimosa ($5). For lunch, it's all about Genies' creamy veggie pot pie ($7.75) or corned-beef reuben ($7.50), both served with crispy fries. The only complaint: Why can't this spot stay open late? (KS)
Good Dog/Bad Dog
708 SW Alder St., 222-3410. Lunch and early dinner daily.
You can get a plain old hot dog ($3.25)—but that's so retro. This is all about handmade sausages like the Garlic Dog ($4.75), the super-spicy Magma Dog ($4.95), or the Oregon Smokey ($4.85), flavored with garlic, molasses and cayenne pepper. Served with optional toppings like the hearty chili (95 cents extra) or various grilled breath killers like garlic (add 75 cents), these dogs have bark and bite. (DW)
Good Taste
18 NW 4th Ave., 223-3838. Lunch and dinner daily. Cash only.
Don't be sidetracked by the golden glow of sex from the adult store next door. This bare-bones Chinatown kitchen has an allure all of its own—namely, its noodles. And its barbecue. Smart gluttons fill up on Good Taste's wonton noodle and dumpling "soups" ($5.95), a misleading name for a mountain of slurp-worthy house-made noodles adorned with earthy, golf-ball-sized, pork-filled wontons, salty strips of barbeque pork bobbing in a good 4 inches of delicate broth. Heady ginger- and green-onion-spiked egg noodles (served with soup, $5.95) and standards like super-hot kung pao shrimp ($8.75) satisfy less adventurous stomachs, while field-snail porridge ($3.95) beckons the intrepid. And don't worry about devouring that moist, flavorful roasted duck (half, $7.95). You can always get another one (or some roasted pig or soy-sauce chicken, $6.25) from the fluorescent-lit to-go counter up front. Good taste, indeed. (KC)
Got Pho?
3634 NE Sandy Blvd., 232-4888. Lunch and dinner daily.
At Got Pho?, the fresh, vibrant flavors and non-divey atmosphere almost make up for its unfortunate name. The pho ($6.45) is beefy, herbaceous and redolent of star anise. If you're not in the mood to splash around in a huge bowl of soup, the vermicelli bowls ($7.75) filled with toothsome rice noodles, veggies, chopped peanuts, and piquant fish sauce come topped with everything from pork chops and lemongrass chicken to delectably crisp sesame tofu. And if you've only got time for a sandwich on the go, the bahn mi ($2.99) has you covered. (MW)
Gravy
3957 N Mississippi Ave., 287-8800. Breakfast and lunch Tuesday-Friday; breakfast Saturday-Sunday.
Crowds clog the Mississippi Avenue sidewalk every weekend morning, lured by Gravy's rib-sticking homestyle breakfasts. If you actually want to eat here instead of just standing around, try the popular but less-crazed lunch hour. Burgers ($7.25), soups, a pulled-pork sandwich ($7.50) that holds its own with any in town and quirky salads (chopped greens, almonds, raisins and sliced apples, $7.75) make this breakfast stronghold a stealth contender for mid-day honors, too. (ZD)
Gretchen's Kitchen
940 SE Morrison St., 234-4086. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday.
A no-nonsense, hold-the-health-food house of heartiness. Regulars know to bypass the printed menu and just ask Gretchen what she's got on the stove or in the fridge. Whatever you do, don't forget to order two scoops of her special, cholesterol-laden shrimp, tuna or chicken salad on the side ($2.75-$3.25 each). Or try the true-to-its-name Mondo Meatloaf sandwich ($6.75) and skip the sides (not to mention the rest of your workday—nighty night!). (JD)
Habibi
1012 SW Morrison St., 274-0628. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.
Reinventing itself with a new interior and new owners (it's now part of the Nicholas-Arabian Breeze family), the former Long Island Cafe still has the same consistent favorites on the Mediterranean and pizza menu. The exotic fumes and comfortable ambience make for the perfect escape from this downtown street on the MAX line. A slice goes for only $2.50, while the mezza platter ($8) serves an eclectic assortment of grape leaves, falafel, tabbouleh, tahini, hummus, baba ghanouj and savory pita. (LM)
Half and Half
923 SW Oak St., 222-4495. Breakfast, lunch and early dinner Monday-Saturday; lunch and early dinner Sunday.
The sweet Dolly Parton plaque and Don Knotts in memoriam salad might suggest that winking irony is the main course here, but whoever chose the grapefruit and grilled fennel to honor the late Barney Fife player was clearly motivated by love, not cultural cachet. Same goes for the Lestat sandwich (Black Forest ham, chevre and blood-orange marmalade) and the puckery Col. Mustard (sammies range from $4.75 to $6.75, while basic breakfast sandwiches start at $3.25). With the cuter-than-cute decorated cookies, adorable Asian travel toys, dollar buttons for sale, and pigtailed pixies as customers, the only drawback is the sneaking suspicion that you're not cute enough to be here. Darlin', you're cute enough. Stop worrying, and have another piece of seriously good pie ($3). (MS)
Halibut's
2525 NE Alberta St., 808-9601. Lunch and dinner daily.
As if the Alberta 'hood weren't growing fast enough, ex-bartender David Mackay has done his part to widen the asses of Northeast Portlanders since he opened this rollicking little fish-'n'-chips outpost last May. Full half-pound orders of crispy-salty battered halibut ($8-$12), Pacific salmon ($7-$11), catfish and cod (both $6-$8) make sharing a necessity, while smaller—yet still gigantor—half-orders ($6-$10) sate isolationists from lunch until dinnertime. The chips are suitably thick-cut, and the stand-up chowder ($5.50) is crafted from equal parts of clams, cream, bacon and (perhaps) crack. The recent addition of an adjointing bar, Halibut's II, in January has more than doubled the fishy joint's capacity, where hungry hordes lube up with pints of Fish Tale's organic IPA ($3.50), cocktails and blues tunes under the watchful (postered) eyes of Halibut's patron saints: Clark Gable, Bob Marley and the NFL. (KC)
Hama Sushi
4232 NE Sandy Blvd., 249-1021. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday, dinner Saturday.
Who says sushi has to be pricey? Hama Sushi complements its crisp, clean aesthetic with lavish presentation and generous portions. To get the most bang for your buck, try the Hama Lunch ($7.95)—a breathtaking array of miso soup, salad, chicken teriyaki, tempura and a four-piece California roll. This beautiful, boxy platter's crown jewel, a tall fan of golden, fluffy tempura shrimp and veggies, makes lunchtime a sacred occasion. (JD)
Le Happy
1011 NW 16th Ave., 226-1258. Dinner and late-night Monday-Saturday. 21+ after 10 pm.
Open up the menu at Le Happy, and you'll understand this late-night crêpe joint's name: The options to feed an alcohol-fueled (or PMS-ravaged) tummy are endless. Need salt? Order up the Le Trash Blanc ($4.50), a buckwheat crêpe wrapped around the blessed savory goodness of bacon and cheddar. Craving massive amounts of sugar? We recommend the Nutella banana crêpe ($5), which is also available as a flambé with Grand Marnier ($9), should you feel the need for pyrotechnics. The only drawback is that Le Happy requires a strong dose of patience, since it's tiny and can only fit one cook. Thus, the place is often crowded. You've been warned. (LS)
Hedge House
3412 SE Division St., 235-2215. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily.
If you miss the feel of a breakfast nook in a setting not unlike a hipster log cabin, your oasis is in Southeast's Hedge House (a sister to the New Old Lompoc and North Portland's Fifth Quadrant). Start with a generous hummus appetizer ($7.25) or brie and fruit plate ($7.50). Move onto a yummy entree—sandwiches and salads, mostly—like the savory portabella sandwich with melted provolone and roasted-garlic mayo on a toasted hoagie roll ($8.50), or a Reuben, available in both carnivore and Gardenburger varieties ($7.75 and $8.75), all with chips, salad, soup or fries. Don't forget to save room for dessert—a hot-fudge brownie à la mode ($5.50) that'll have you licking your plate. (KS)
Helser's
1538 NE Alberta St., 281-1477. Breakfast and lunch daily.
This light-filled Northeast Alberta Street cafe has a hungry brunch following. Spend your wait time eyeballing the menu, a handful of eclectic dishes, from warm Scotch eggs (deep-fried hard-boilers wrapped in bratwurst, $6.95) to a humungous yet airy Dutch baby pancake drizzled with fresh fruit ($8.25), buttressed by straightforward, delicious configurations of meats, eggs and Grand Central breads (or housemade crumpets). A thick, vanilla- and cinnamon-spiked brioche French toast will sate a sweet tooth ($6.50), but carnivores would do well to invest in side dishes and devour that stand-up pepper bacon ($2.70), sweet, super-plump maple sausages ($2.70) and a few of Helser's hearty, rough-cut russet-potato pancakes ($1.95). Come lunchtime, a grilled sammy packed with juicy Zenner's ham and melty Tillamook cheddar ($5.95) couldn't hurt, either. (KC)
Hoda's
3401 SE Belmont St., 236-8325. Lunch and dinner daily.
Start off with an airy, LP-sized pita and dip it into a shimmery puddle of hummus ($4.25). Move on to one of the mezza platters ($8-$9) for a comprehensive taste of what Hoda's Middle Eastern Cuisine has to offer. Those with lighter appetites might try an exceptionally fresh feta salad ($6.50) while voracious carnivores will enjoy tearing into the beef shawarma plate ($8.50-$9.75). With generous portions and accommodating service, you'll want to make Hoda's one of your three wishes. (CM)
Horn of Africa
3939 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 331-9844. Lunch and dinner daily.
This small, family-run spot serves home-cooking from Eastern Africa, a.k.a. "the Horn," including Somalian, Kenyan and Ethiopian cuisines. There's something terrifically sensual about scooping up exotic food with spongy biddeena flatbread, and the mountainous combo plates like the vegetarian sampler ($9.75) and very mild curried lamb ($12.95) can keep otherwise idle hands busy for quite some time. The lunch buffet ($7.95) and weekend dinner buffet ($10.95) make the whole experience thrifty and sexy at the same time. (IM)
Industrial Cafe and Saloon
2572 NW Vaughn St., 227-7002. Lunch daily, breakfast Saturday-Sunday, dinner Monday-Saturday.
Industrial chic meets sandwich style. Whether you're looking for a steel-and-wood fix or just to fill your belly, Industrial Cafe serves up American faves under $10. Lunch standards include a patty melt on dark rye slathered with flavorful grilled onions ($8) or five-cheese mac swimming in melted goodness ($8). Sandwiches come with a salad or french fries. Weekend breakfast features a variety of egg-and-meat breakfasts ($6.50-$10) along with flapjacks ($5) or apple, cinnamon and raisin Ball Bearing Fritters ($4.50). (ID)
Island Joe's Tropical Cafe
538 SW 6th Ave., 973-5637. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
The varied victuals (and the downtown views) don't live up to Joe's vibrant, isle-inspired interior. But most folks we know don't come to this coffeehouse cum cafe cum cocktail bar for coconut-rum chicken ($7.95) or deep-fried yuca root ($3.95) with sweet banana "catsup." At Joe's, it's all about the beignets, baby! These bite-sizers, fried pillows smothered in powder sugar ($6 for a dozen), are the pastry world's equivalent to crack cocaine. Take a snort. (BB)
The Italian Joint
Miss stuffing yourself into your Italian nonna's crowded dining room? Sidle up to this authentic eatery, at once romantic and family-friendly. Start with a gargantuan Caesar ($6, $9 with chicken or shrimp) and a surprisingly lengthy red-wine selection ($6-$9 a glass). For entrees, try basics like the lasagne ($11) or spaghetti and meatballs ($10), or go for broke with heavenly crab and grilled-artichoke ravioli covered in an alfredo sauce ($12). Don't forget to share that tiramisu ($4.50)—but you'll probably have to order two. (KS)
J&M Cafe
537 SE Ash St., 230-0463. Breakfast daily, lunch Monday-Friday.
At first glance, the menu at this spacious breakfast and lunch eatery seems pretty standard. But the small print reveals creative, high-quality ingredients. The three-egg garden scramble ($6.95) is composed of roasted garlic, mushrooms, leeks and mustard greens. An upgraded grilled cheese ($4.95) gets cheddar and fontina, red-pepper pesto, tomatoes and grilled onions on organic whole wheat or sourdough rye. But of course, J&M had me at "Help yourself to the Stumptown Coffee" ($1.50). (JL)
Javier's Taco Shop #2
121 N Lombard St., 286-3186. Open 24 hours daily.
When the bars close for the night and you want more than drive-through, Javier's is there for you. So what if this isn't home to the most dazzling Mexican food, atmosphere or patrons—you're not looking so good at 3 am either, you know? Just be happy your veggie-chimichanga log ($5) is slathered with sour cream and too big for the plate. The choices at this 24-hour savior are so overflowing that the menu behind the counter has to be supplemented with marker-scrawled posters and pieces of cardboard to cram everything in, including such not-your-average-taco-shack choices as tacos de tripa. (MS)
John Street Cafe
8338 N Lombard St., 247-1066. Breakfast and lunch Wednesday-Saturday, breakfast Sunday.
We have one word for you: bacavo. This quaint St. Johns breakfast spot had the brilliance to combine bacon, avocado, Monterey jack and bleu cheeses—in an omelette ($8.75). As if that's not enough, fluffy cake combos like pineapple and pecan appear as specials ($5.25), perfect fried potatoes and hearty wheat toast come with just about everything, and delicious Kobos coffee ($1.75) eases the weekend-morning wait. It doesn't serve up a bad lunch, either. (AM)
Johnny B's
1212 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 233-1848. Breakfast and lunch Tuesday-Friday, breakfast Saturday.
The most adventurous thing diners will find at Johnny B's are the bright-green tennis balls capping the legs of the chairs. Aside from that, everything here is strict greasy-spoon fare. The menu actually has more meat choices (ham, bacon, sausage links, corned beef, German sausage, etc.) than it does veggie choices for its omelettes (green peppers, onions, mushrooms, tomatoes, no etc.). So it's best to just give up your whole health kick and go for the regular specials board, which features one of those meats with golden crisp hash browns, two eggs and toast (also absurdly golden) for between $5.25 and $5.95. Or get there before 8 to eavesdrop on old-timers telling war stories and to catch a decent early-bird special ($3.50). (MB)
Juniors
1742 SE 12th Ave., 467-4971. Breakfast and lunch daily.
The hippest little breakfast-brunch-lunch joint for animal lovers and their animal-eating sweethearts. Locals come in droves for the scrambles, like the 12th Avenue ($7), a colorful, fresh amalgam of zucchini, corn, green onions, tomatoes and parmesan with your choice of eggs or tofu. If you like it both ways, try the paradoxical Garden of Sin ($7.50) a saintly, savory vegan burger adorned with wickedly delicious layers of bacon, cheese and spicy horseradish mayo. (JD)
Kalga Kafe
4147 SE Division St., 236-4770. Dinner and late-night daily.
You're sort of in the mood for Indian. But you really could go for a salad. Or maybe a wrap. But you still want to hear some techno while you quaff a cocktail. Well, Kalga is your place. This hippie-meets-hipster haunt earnestly serves up a mixed bag of organic, South Asian-ish, vegetarian cuisine, from a fresca salad with olives, roasted red peppers, almonds and greens ($5-$7.50) to the chole bhatoore, a spicy, garbanzo-based stew ($8.50). (CM)
Ken's Artisan Bakery
338 NW 21st Ave., 248-2202. Breakfast, lunch and early dinner daily.
You'll think you've died and gone to Paris when you glimpse this bright, ambitious bakery's display of sugary, chic baked goods. From heavenly butter croissants ($1.95) to rich bread puddings ($3.50), Ken's sweet treats hook you; its savories reel you in. To totally transcend traditional Parisian street food, try the house-roasted turkey-breast sandwich ($6.45) decked out with spicy garlic aioli, asiago cheese and dark green-leaf lettuce and served on a chewy house-made baguette. Or for a Pacific Northwest twist on a classic French favorite, try the delectable, juicy croque portabella ($6.45). (JD)
King Burrito
2924 N Lombard St., 283-9757. Lunch and dinner daily.
With brick-sized burritos ($3.25-$3.75), this NoPo institution is known for having the cheapest and largest around—you'll need both hands and a small shovel to get one of these things in your mouth. The tacos ($1.25-$1.50) are a bit smaller and quite tasty, but avoid the Americanized nachos ($1.75) unless you're someone who loves that faux cheese stuff they dump on your food at moviehouses and sports stadiums. But overall, the food is authentic, and Selena's on the jukebox. Enough said. (LP)
Koreana
9955 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, 646-7767. Lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner daily.
This cedar-paneled strip-mall joint's homestyle Korean cooking draws both Korean-Americans and newcomers to the spicy, meat-heavy cuisine. Traditional staples like sizzling bi bim bap ($9.95), with a mound of tender beef strips, egg and vegetables on a plate of steaming rice, come with eight classic kim chi (pickled-vegetable) side dishes—the egg-battered, chilied zucchini is a standout. Order a bottle of Hite beer ($6 for 22-ounce bottle) to tame the spice. (KD)
Kornblatt's Delicatessen
628 NW 23rd Ave., 242-0055. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
With its wisecracking actor/waiter staff and menu of deli favorites, at Kornblatt's, those jonesing for a taste of New York can get a reasonable fix. The pastrami ($9.25) has just the right amount of fat and spice; with a smear of deli mustard, it transports you to the Lower East Side. Don't miss the terrific soups—the matzo balls are definitely sinkers, but delish. You'll need to do an hour of biking to work off the crisp, substantial latkes ($4.95). Beware the bagels. (MW)
Laurelwood Public House and Brewery
1728 NE 40th Ave., 282-0622. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily; brunch Saturday-Sunday. Laurelwood NW: 2327 NW Kearney St., 228-5553. Lunch and dinner daily.
Laurelwood's menu may make it sound like it's a Fight Club-sammie sort of joint (where else can you get a black-and-bleu burger for $7.95?), but its Northwest location is actually one of the most private and laid-back brewpubs you'll find tucked away in this Nob Hill neighborhood (it also has a Hollywood 'hood hangout). Alongside somewhat pricey burgers ($7 for a basic, but add-ons add up), other pub-grub faves include beer-steamed bratwurst ($8.95), a Buffalo crispy chicken sandwich ($8.95) and the nearly 10-buck Laurelwood burrito stuffed with roasted chicken (or veggies), black beans, rice and cheese. And did we mention beer? (BB)
Lum Yuen
Through the moon gate (the Chinese symbol for heaven), one enters Lum Yuen's oversized banquet-style dining room. An old favorite of Old Town diners, this Asian hotspot offers a huge dim sum menu perfect for breakfast or brunch ($2-$4), and an even more ample menu, with plenty of rice combinations and lots of seafood, including the savory shrimp with Chinese greens ($9.25), for lunch and dinner. (LM)
Marinepolis Sushi Land
1409 NE Weidler St., 280-0300; 9400 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, 297-1575. Lunch and dinner daily.
If you're a maki-eater, but you'd like to try nigiri without breaking the bank, go to Marinepolis Sushi Land. Sample super-fresh albacore ($1.50) or eel ($1.50) before resorting to wussie-but-tasty options like creamy seafood salad rolls ($1.50). Specials like ribeye ($2) seem out of place but taste so good you'll wonder why you didn't think of steak sushi yourself. And when mini eclairs (three for $1.50) come round the conveyor-belt bend, grab 'em: so not Japanese, but a welcome finale, nonetheless. (AM)
Michael's Italian Beef & Sausage
1111 SE Sandy Blvd., 230-1899. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.
The tastiest heart attack this side of Chicago, Michael's Italian Beef has earned every bit of its well-worn reputation. The namesake sandwich ($3.50 half/$6.65 whole) drips with natural juices and gravy so good you'll lick the wrapper, while the Chicago Style Italian Sausage ($3.25/$6.35) is enough to bring Mike Ditka to his knees. Sandwiches come jammed into a tasty hunk of Italian bread. But word to the wise—chomp these habit-forming babies fast, lest the juices soak through the bun. (AK)
Milo's City Cafe
1325 NE Broadway, 288-6456. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
This breakfast hot spot offers all the standards: everything eggy, including a range of tempting benedicts ($7.50-$10.50), French toast ($3.95-$7.50) and waffles ($3.95-$4.95). On weekends, you'll wait a while, but it's a cheerful, kid-friendly scene. A smoked-salmon omelette ($7.50) was flavorful with cream cheese, scallions and spinach. Lunch options include pastas ($7.95-$8.95), salads ($2.95-$10.95) and sandwiches ($6.50-$7.50); dinner is more of the same, with the add-on of a few unique entrees like duck with plum sauce ($15.95). (JC)
Mio Sushi
2271 NW Johnson St., 221-1469; 3962 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 230-6981; 2735 N Killingsworth St., 286-5123. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.
Oh, the compartmentalized joy of a bento box lunch! So many little presents to open! Mio's boxes come with saucy meat (the spicy chicken is the best), salad, a California roll, rice and two slices of fried tofu ($6.95)—quite enough for lunch and a snack. The slammed kitchen also spins up inspired rolls, like the double crunch roll ($7.95), which includes with shrimp tempura, spicy tuna and avocado. (AV)
Mississippi Pizza
3552 N Mississippi Ave., 288-3231. Lunch, dinner and late night daily.
North Mississippi Avenue was mostly boarded up when this congenial, homespun 'za shop opened about five years back. Now, it's a venerable anchor of the little cluster of cafes and shops lining this pocket-sized main street. With knock-about furniture, a live-music lineup that's eclectic to the point of being scattershot, and laid-back post-hippie ways, the pizza pub comes pretty close to defining the neighborhood vibe. Nothing daring here, just generous slabs of pizza (with six or so different pies usually available by the slice, $2.50-$3.50), big salads ($6.50-$7), pitchers of microbrew ($8-$10.50), and cocktails served from a tiny, hidden lounge. It's comfort to the core, and the people approve. (ZD)
Le Bistro Montage
301 SE Morrison St., 234-1324. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily.
The grittily urbane Montage jostles its diners around a bit with the outdoor wait under a truck-heavy overpass, strangers sitting elbow to elbow at long tables, the overwhelming walls of wine, the tanginess of those famous oyster shooters and servers' jackets embroidered with "Hate." But then it soothes eaters right back into their comfort zone with a steaming bowl of mac 'n' cheese ($5-$8.50), a plate of pork chops ($12.50), and a little pat on the head in the form of silly foil sculpture to house the leftovers. (It's fun to watch servers embarrass young men on first dates by giving them 4-foot foil swans for carrying out their leftovers. Compensating for something, kiddo?) There's a section of Southern offerings, too, but New Orleans faves like jambalaya ($7.95-$12.95) are sold short by undercooked rice. Stick to the comfort food. (MS)
Monteaux's Public House
16165 SW Regatta Lane, Beaverton, 439-9942. Lunch and dinner daily, late-night Friday-Saturday.
You'd be surprised at what can come out of a strip mall in Beaverton. Start with the skirt-steak salad topped with creamy horseradish dressing ($9.95) or savory pierogies ($5.50). Move onto a club sandwich ($8.25) or halibut fish and chips ($10.50), both served with scrumptious fries. The pseudo sports-bar decor might not be worth coming back for, but the butterscotch ice-cream pie ($5) sure as hell is. (KS)
Mudai
801 NE Broadway, 287-5433. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.
This Northeast Broadway Ethiopian hangout has a split personality: Downstairs, the butter-yellow dining room boasts African art and attentive tableside service. Upstairs, the neon beer-sign-lit bar beckons with a serenade of video poker bleeps and, again, kind tableside service. Either way, bring some friends, because Mudai's authentic plates only come sized extra-large or holy Jesus. Invest in a $10.95 veggie combo or the flesh-friendly Mudai combo ($14.95) and sample nearly everything on the menu, all served mounded up like little anthills on a pizza pan-sized round of that spongy, tasty, all purpose Ethiopian bread/plate/utensil enjera. Highlights include a golden, mellow split-pea mash called alicha kik watt, meaty barbecue beef and savory boiled cabbage. (Psst: The chicken-and-spinach mash needs salt, though.) Maybe that ubiquitous "Ethiopia: 13 Months of Sunshine" poster hanging on the bar's wall really just refers to the warmth in your stomach you'll have for hours to come. (KC)
Muddy's Coffeehouse
3560 N Mississippi Ave., 445-6690. Breakfast and lunch daily.
With all of the food choices in the Mississippi District, it can be easy to overlook this little cafe. But Muddy's is well worth the stop—it's warm, it's comforting, it's inexpensive and the food is damn good. Though it bills itself as a coffeehouse, it has an all-day breakfast and lunch menu that offers far more than standard coffee shop fare, with a mouth-watering tuna melt ($5.75) and an absolutely perfect cinnamon-infused French toast ($4.75). Its quirky atmosphere makes you feel like you're gathering in your friend's living room—and it won't take long before you realize that, actually, you are. (LP)
Nancy's Kitchen
1611 NW Glisan St., 241-1137. Breakfast and lunch Tuesday-Saturday, breakfast Sunday.
Don't be fooled by a clientele that skews toward your parents' parents. This Pearl District eatery rates a good deal for those with all their taste buds. The spinach salad ($7.99) with Nancy's signature celery-seed dressing is a meal in itself. Sandwiches like the BLT classic ($6.79) and albacore tuna ($6.29) are filling, especially if you opt to add a baseball-sized portion of potato salad ($2.29). Steer clear of the watery Hungarian mushroom soup or clam chowder that come with the half-sandwich and cup of soup ($6.99). But do give into your sweet tooth and try Nancy's famously fluffy and plentiful lemon chiffon pie ($3) or thick shakes ($3.99). (HS)
Nicholas Restaurant
318 SE Grand Ave., 235-5123. Lunch and dinner daily. Cash or check only.
Join the line in front of cramped 'n' quirky Nicholas Restaurant. Housemade pita is the secret of this longtime favorite Lebanese spot. Try it wrapped around succulent marinated beef in a shawarma sandwich that's a taste of greasy heaven ($6.50). It also serves as a base for deliciously inventive "pizzas"—the vegan manakish ($4.25), topped with a sesame-seed-studded spice blend may make you renounce your standard 'za. Or use the pita to scoop up some classic hummus and garlicky tzatziki on one of the mezza platters ($8.25). (MW)
Nick's Famous Coney Island
3746 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 235-4024. Lunch Tuesday-Saturday, dinner Wednesday-Friday, early dinner Saturday. Cash only.
Next time you're suffering from a punk/hippie/hipster sensory overload on your stroll down Hawthorne, duck into Nick's for a little no-nonsense old-school. Part diner, part shrine to the Yankees, Nick's serves up some kick-ass Coney Islands: hot dogs absolutely smothered in rich chili and cheese, topped off with diced raw onion. Order 'em single ($5), double ($7), triple ($8) or—good God, yes!—home run ($12). Add a glass of draft Bud ($1.50) and you've got an American classic. (JL)
Nicola's Pizza and Pasta
4826 N Lombard St., 285-1119. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
The perfect hangout for a post-Sopranos spaghetti-and-meatballs marathon. Don't be deceived by the name: Pizza isn't even the half of what Nicola's is all about. Here, intimidating plates of pasta bully their way into the spotlight, threatening to break your belt buckle but not the bank. All entrees come with soup or salad, huge slices of fresh bread, and a tasty, tiny antipasto plate of olives, salamis and pepperoncinis. For a guilty, cheesy pleasure, try the parmesan-laden chicken Florentine ($14.99). (JD)
No Fish! Go Fish!
3962 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 235-5378. Lunch and dinner daily, breakfast Saturday-Sunday.
This place is decidedly offbeat, an attitude reflected as much in its food as its kooky decor. The quirky fare is best represented by the No Fish! Go Fish! sandwich ($1-$1.50). It's like a fish-shaped Hot Pocket stuffed with anything from ham and cheese to black-olive tapenade, and it's delicious. The dinner special ($7) pairs two sandwiches with a giant bowl of soup and nicely complements more upscale items like the very fresh salade niçoise ($12). (AC)
Ohana Hawaiian Cafe
6320 NE Sandy Blvd., 335-5800. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
This mango-colored eatery is like a little ray of sunshine on Northeast Sandy Boulevard. Ohana's charming staff serves up Hawaiian classics like pulled kalua pig ($8)—oh-so-salty (in a great way)—served with cabbage and lomi salmon, as well as carnivorous combos like the Sumo plate ($11): teriyaki pork, barbecue chicken and short ribs, not to mention creamy-delish macaroni salad. Finish things off with a high-class version of a Sno-Kone ($2.50)—ice shaved and topped with fancy syrups, right before your eyes. (AM)
The Original Pancake House
8601 SW 24th Ave., 246-9007. Breakfast Wednesday-Sunday.
Line up on the benches in the foyer with church-going grandmas and slumber-party participants still in their jammies—there's likely to be a wait for a table at this pine-paneled pancake palace. The menu boasts 20 kinds of flapjacks, including a bacon-flecked variety ($7.75), fruit waffles and an eggy apple pancake ($10) as big as your head. (IM)
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Introduction: Cheap Eats 2006
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Photographer: Jenna Biggs
Stylists: Alex Bravo and Tera Hersel
Models: Kristina, Sarah and Alex of Q6 Models
Designers: Renée Bielawski, Brian Brown, Joe Davis, Tom Humphrey, Cari Vander Yacht, Matt Wong
Copy Editors: Matt Buckingham, Ian Gillingham, Margaret Seiler
Contributors: Elianna Bar-El, Mark Baumgarten, Byron Beck, Joanna Cantor, Adrian Chen, Kelly Clarke, Shoshanna Cohen, Kate Darling, Ian Demsky, Johanna Droubay, Zach Dundas, Tim DuRoche, Sage Friedman, Nigel Jaquiss, Maya Kukes, Joe Lino, Seth Lorinczi, Ivy Manning, Amy McCullough, Mike McGonigal, Carin Moonin, Laura Mulry, Laura Parisi, Roger Porter, Kim Potter, Margaret Seiler, Laura Shinn, Karla Starr, Hank Stern, Angela Valdez, David Walker, Miriam Wolf
WWeek 2015