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Sure, P.R.E.A.M. is a hip-hop pizza shop. Nothing more all-American than that.
But one of its two chef-owners, Nicholas Ford, also cut his teeth in the kitchens of Iceland, learning from legendary Reykjavik chef-entrepreneur Gunnar Karl Gíslason, a chef so well-regarded he's been called "the chef who rescued Iceland" in the face of that country's 2008 banking collapse, who is expanding his empire to New York City this year.
In a little old house at Hversfigata 12 in Reykjavik, Gíslason owns a pizza place with no name making unexpected, exceptional pizzas and complicated cocktails. The little house is also home to Mikkeller and Friends, serving up beers by Danish brewer Mikkel Borg Bjergso—known in part for his feud with his brewer brother Jeppe—that have become equally legendary worldwide but are next to impossible to get your hands on in Portland.
At the famous KEX hostel, meanwhile, Gislason's gastropub Sæmundur í sparifötunum is headed by chef Ólafur Ágústsson—also in the mix at Dill and H-12 pizza.
Well, on Monday, Oct. 19, at 6 pm, Agusstson will arrive at P.R.E.A.M. with a whole bunch of Mikkeller beer, to serve up nouveau Nordic cuisine from beer-vinegar lamb to salted cod, while P.R.E.AM. will serve H-12 pizzas "with a P.R.E.AM. twist."
Needless to say, this is neither food nor beer that most of you will see again soon. After multiple false starts, we got on the horn with Icelandic chef "Oli" Ágústsson to ask him about Icelandic pizza, lamb on an airplane and his favorite fried chicken in Portland.
WW: So when Americans hear Iceland, we don't really think "pizza."
Ólafur Ágústsson: Maybe when you think Iceland you don't think pizza, but it's the most common fast food here. [At Hversfigata 12] we wanted to do something different—make really good pizzas, but use the form of pizza as a base and then build upon it. If we could call it something else, then we would.
You worked with P.R.E.A.M.'s Nicholas Ford in Iceland?
We spent some time together—I can't wait to go into his restaurant. My background is not in pizza. My kind of thing is doing food food, and his is doing pizza. He obviously knew what he was all about [when he was in Iceland.] He knows his techniques, he knows his baking. I think that it was more of a challenge for him doing the fine dining thing.
So what are you going to cook here in Portland?
I just really want people to come in and enjoy our meal—and not just typical Icelandic lamb, that's getting kind of boring, I want to show Oregon something different with an Icelandic twist, an Icelandic perspective with Oregonian ingredients. I made a menu for four courses, that's the ground—but we will build up from that. I will use my own flavors—if you can say that. Down to earth, fresh, sour, not heavy. Really light, nice food. I'm bringing Icelandic lamb. We have the season now.
The airlines let you shlep that in your suitcase?
I hope so.
So why doesn't your pizza place have a name?
It only has a street address. It's three different restaurants. One of them is the pizza place. In the same building we have Dill, which is a highly acclaimed fine dining run by Gunnar, which is restationing to New York in Grand Central Terminal. And then we have the third restaurant, the gastropub.
Have you been in Portland before?
It's the best city I've ever been to—I look forward to it. It reminds me a little of Copenhagen but better because everyone is not in a hurry. You can sit down and drink. Not too much! But it is more laidback.
What did you like in particular?
I would be lying if I told you I didn't like the meal at Pok Pok. It was one of the craziest moments of my life. I had the fish sauce wings and and all sorts of food. I bought the book and I've read the book 500 times. I also keep thinking at about a dive bar on Division called Reel M Inn. It was right across the street from the house where we stayed.
You get the fried chicken there?
Of course! It was crazy.
What are you looking forward to?
I can't wait to go in to P.R.E.A.M. and cook some food. I think Portland people are really good guests, and I look forward to cooking for them. Also, we're going on a tour of the Mexican restaurants.
EAT: P.R.E.A.M. Icelandic pop-up, 2131 SE 11th Ave, 231-2809, preampizza.com. Monday, October 19, 6 pm.
Here's the working menu for Agusstson at the Icelandic pop-up:
Braised lamb shanks, mushrooms and radishes.
Wild mushrooms, beer vinegar, radishes and herbs.
Beetroot, cherries, dulse and goatcheese.
Fire baked beetroots, DILL oil with vinegar, pickled dulse vinaigrette, crispy bread and goatcheese.
Salted cod, potatoes, lovage, pickled onions and brown butter.
Baked cod, pureed potatoes.
Tartare of lamb.
Tartare of Icelandic lamb, mustard, celeriac, tarragon, nuts and herbs.
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