Noraneko

By Matthew Korfhage

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1430 SE Water Ave., 238-6356, noranekoramen.com. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily.

Noraneko is Biwa's ramen-ya spinoff on an industrial Southeast Water Avenue corner by the train tracks, a spartan, honey-wooded nook with 30 seats, plus a bar serving lovely, fruity shochu drinks for summer. Noraneko doesn't include the fixins with its four $9 ramens—go for miso or especially the vegan mushroom—but you're a sucker not to add to them when you order at the counter before sitting. Tack on $3 for pork chasyu or pork belly, plus $1 for that perfect molten-centered egg, and it's $13 and worth it. A tip, though? Eat late. Between midnight and 2 am, when you really need it, ramen is a mere $5.

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Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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