Ranch PDX

(Andrea Johnson)
By Andi Prewitt

If too many cheap takeout family dinners in your youth came from Little Caesars and resulted in a grown-up suspicion of square-shaped pizza, we totally understand. But Ranch will redeem pies with corners if you give it a chance. The thick Sicilian/Detroit-style crust with its blackened crunchy sides and doughy middle can handle the substantial additions generously heaped on top. For example, the Number Four ($23) comes with a rich tomato sauce base, crispy balls of sausage, chilies and basil—but you'll be racing to bite your way to the center, where cooling mounds of creamy ricotta lie. This is a dipper's sanctuary where ranch lovers can bathe their slices without shame. And the dressing is divine and housemade with buttermilk, sour cream, green onion and dill.

GO: 1760 NE Dekum St., 971-288-5187, 344 NE 28th Ave., ranchpdx.com, Woodlawn: 11 am-2 pm and 5-10 pm Monday-Friday, 11 am-10 pm Saturday-Sunday, Poison's Rainbow: 3 pm-12:30 am, Monday-Thursday, 3 pm-2 am, Friday-Sunday

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