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Jim Dixon wrote about food for WW for more than 20 years, but these days most of his time is spent at his olive oil-focused specialty food business Wellspent Market. Jim’s always loved to eat, and he encourages his customers to cook by sending them recipes every week through his newsletter. We’re happy to have him back creating some special dishes just for WW readers.
Cooked strawberries are an abomination. For as long as I can remember, that’s what I’d say when asked why I didn’t like strawberry rhubarb pie. And while my preference came from my own visceral reaction, I learned much later that it’s grounded in science. Heat destroys many of the compounds responsible for the compellingly delicious flavor of ripe strawberries. Cooking renders them merely sweet. I also love the tart, tannic flavor of rhubarb, and the treacly strawberries cover it up too much.
But over the years I’ve learned that I should take another look at my long-held and often cranky opinions about food. In the same way I’ve taken to reluctantly enjoying a bowl of mint chocolate chip ice cream, I’ve come around to embrace, however weakly, strawberries cooked with rhubarb. My results have not been abominable. I still think a rhubarb-only dessert is better, but, as hard as it is for me to accept it, not everyone loves rhubarb.
Make no mistake; when Oregon strawberries are at their peak, they’re best eaten plain. I bought a half flat at the farmers market after a few days of early summer sunshine had boosted their sugar content and ate most of them straight from their green paper baskets. Do that and you’ll never again eat those pasty, flavorless berries sold year-round in the supermarket.
Recipe
For the streusel
½ cup flour
½ cup sugar
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
¼ teaspoon kosher-style sea salt
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cups rhubarb, sliced about ½ inch thick
1 pint strawberries, stems removed and halved
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons semolina*
Zest and juice from 1 lemon
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
*Neither rhubarb nor strawberries contain natural pectin, so the semolina keeps the cooked fruit from becoming soupy. Substitute flour or cornstarch if desired.
Make the streusel by mixing the flour, sugar, cardamom, and salt in small bowl. Add the olive oil a tablespoon at a time, stirring just enough to moisten the flour mix and give you loose clumps. Refrigerate while you prepare the fruit.
Combine the rhubarb, strawberries, sugar, semolina, lemon zest and juice, and cardamom. Spread the fruit mixture into an 8-inch baking dish or skillet. Crumble the streusel on top. Bake at 350 F for about 45 minutes, then let cool to room temperature. Serve with whipped cream.