FOOD

What We’re Cooking This Week: Potato, Celery Root and Leek Soup

If you or your date eats dairy, adding a cup of cream makes this soup especially elegant and even more delicious.

Potato, celery root and leek soup (Jim Dixon)

Jim Dixon wrote about food for WW for more than 20 years, but these days most of his time is spent at his olive oil-focused specialty food business Wellspent Market. Jim’s always loved to eat, and he encourages his customers to cook by sending them recipes every week through his newsletter. We’re happy to have him back creating some special dishes just for WW readers.

Cooking for a first date may seem fraught, but it provides a more genuine intimate experience than a restaurant meal. Your potential romantic interest gets a chance to see the real you in your own home. You’re surrounded by the things you think are important, and they provide conversation starters you won’t get anywhere else.

Just what to cook is tricky. It must be delicious, of course, but you don’t want to look like you’re showing off. At the same time, the meal needs to demonstrate that you care enough about what you eat to put some thought and effort into it. But not so much effort that you’re tired and stressed for the actual date. This simple soup uses a handful of good ingredients, including a couple of not so common vegetables, and the result is both tasty and elegant. It’s also easily adapted for any dietary preference. If you’re not sure about your date’s eating habits, just ask them if there’s anything they don’t eat.

The soup doesn’t depend on any complicated techniques, so the ingredients take priority. Good olive oil might be the most important, and it must be truly extra virgin. Most people, even experienced home cooks and some restaurant chefs, don’t really understand what extra virgin means, and it would take more room than I’ve got to explain it, but here’s the TL:DR. Since the term isn’t regulated in the U.S., seeing it on the label doesn’t really matter. The easiest approach is to buy olive oil from California Olive Ranch. It’s widely available, reasonably priced, and certified by independent agencies to be legit. If you have another trusted source that’s fine, and if you want more information we’ve got it here. But this is one place you can’t afford to compromise.

I also rant frequently about salt, specifically Diamond Crystal kosher, probably used by more good cooks than any other. But it’s made by Cargill, a problematic multinational with values and practices that seem, to me anyway, at odds with the notion of good food. I specify kosher-style sea salt, which just means flakier crystals made from evaporated sea water. The prefilled salt grinders available at most larger grocery stores are a good option, and there’s usually one for black pepper, too.

If your date eats dairy, adding a cup of cream makes this soup especially elegant and even more delicious. Omnivores may want to use good chicken stock instead of water, but for the best flavor either make your own or use Better Than Buillon concentrate instead of the canned stuff.

And like all soups, this one is better the next day, so make it ahead of time and let it sit for at least a few hours in the refrigerator. On date night, gently reheat it while you make a simple green salad dressed with the same good olive oil and a decent wine vinegar (1 tablespoon of vinegar, 3 tablespoons of olive oil, and a pinch of salt should be fine for a salad that feeds two). Some good bread and you’ve got the perfect meal, but if you need something sweet at the end, keep it simple, like ice cream or good chocolate.

Recipe

1 fat or 2 skinny leeks

1 medium celery root, about 2 pounds

2 pounds yellow potatoes

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

Kosher-style sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

MSG, aka aji no moto (optional, but highly recommended)

½ teaspoon sugar (optional)

Prepare the leek by cutting off the top, darker green part, often marked by the top starting to branch out a little. Keeping the root end intact, slice the leek lengthwise and discard the first couple of outer layers. Place the halves flat side down and cut into half-moon slices about ½ inch thick.

Peel the potatoes and cut them into bite-sized pieces about ½ inch thick.

Cut a thin slice from the top of the celery root, then cut away any gnarly roots by making thin cuts around the base. Try not to remove too much of the pale interior, but you do want to get rid of any narrow seams that contain dirt. I use the tip of a knife to dig these out, and sometimes wait until after I’ve peeled and then slice the root to get the last bits, but it’s OK to leave a few dark spots.

Use a swivel peeler to remove the light brown outer layer so you end up with a mostly pale white ball. Cut it in half, then cut each half into slices about ½ inch thick. Cut these into bite-sized pieces, and it’s fine if they vary in size.

Combine the vegetables in a pot with the lid, add the olive oil, salt, pepper and MSG, cover the pot, and cook over medium low heat for at least 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. You’re not after browning here; the vegetables will release their water and soften, and much of their flavor is oil soluble, so this step helps develop flavor.

Add 2 cups of water, cover the pot, and continue to cook gently for another 20–30 minutes or until the potatoes and celery root are very soft. Remove from the heat and let sit for an hour. Taste and add a small shake of MSG and a pinch of salt, then taste again. If the soup still seems a little bland, add another pinch of salt and taste again. I think the sugar adds another subtle dimension, so stir it in if you like. Keep adding salt by the pinch and tasting until you like it, but go slowly. It shouldn’t taste salty, and if you think you’ve gone too far, add a little water and taste again.

Jim Dixon

Jim Dixon wrote about food for Willamette Week for more than 20 years, but these days most of his time is spent at his olive oil-focused specialty food business, Wellspent Market.

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