When I finally traded my 1940s-era Wedgewood gas stove for a sleek induction model, I got a much bigger oven. Before, I’d make something like this by cooking the onion first in olive oil in a Dutch oven on the stovetop, then adding the other vegetables one at a time, except the eggplant, which I like to cook hot and fast by itself. Same with the mushrooms; I like to cook them dry for a while to drive off most of their moisture.

But my big oven lets me put a few skillets or a couple of sheet pans in at the same time, and roasting at high heat gives the vegetables a little caramelization flavor I can’t get as easily on the stovetop. After they get some browning, I add them to some gently cooked garlic, stir in some grushed tomatoes, and let it all simmer.

A short pasta that catches the chunky sauce, something like curly fusllli, works best. But a stick blender could make the sauce smoother and more suitable for spaghetti or other long pasta.

Recipe

1 small onion (or large shallot)

1 small red bell pepper

1 small eggplant

1 fennel bulb

½ lb mushrooms, sliced

1 27 oz can crushed or ground tomatoes*

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ lb dried pasta, preferably a short shape like fusilli

Grated Parmigiano Reggiano for serving

*A good jarred tomato sauce would also work.

Chop all the vegetables in small pieces. Use a bowl to toss each vegetable in a tablespoon or so of olive oil and pinch of salt, then transfer to the skillets or sheet pans. If using sheet pans, keep the vegetables roughly separated so you can remove the ones that are done more easily and cook the others longer if needed (it’s fine if they get a little mixed up).

Heat your oven to 450F (if you have a convection option use that, but lower the temp to 400 and cook for a shorter time). Roast the vegetables until they’re nicely browned and tender, about 20 minutes.

In a pot or Dutch oven large enough to hold all the vegetables and pasta, cook the garlic in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil for a minute or two, just until it starts to color. Add the oregano and transfer the cooked vegetables to the pot. Add the tomatoes and cook over medium for about 15 minutes while the pasta cooks.

Cook the pasta in well salted water for the time indicated on the package or until it’s the level of tenderness you prefer. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to transfer the cooked pasta to the pot with vegetables. Stir to combine and let cook for a few minutes. Serve with the grated parm.