Restaurant Guide 2008

Both veterans and virgins of kimchi and bulgogi—not to mention serious meat eaters and vegetarians—can dine in harmony at this upscale Nob Hill outpost of Korean cuisine. Make a meal of a refreshing salad (carrots, avocados and cucumbers are dressed in light yet flavor-packed dressings) and one or two items from the long list of starters: pajeon—egg pancakes with scallions and seafood—or japchae, stir-fried sweet potato noodles with vegetables that are chewy (in a good way) and habit-forming. Hearty soups of meat, vegetables and seafood are clean and restorative, and a large variety of "traditional dishes" including kimchi stew and several versions of the ubiquitous bibimbop. Accompanying most entrees are nine tiny side dishes, including mild and spicy kimchis, pepper-spiced squid, sautéed spinach and fried vegetable patties.

IDEAL MEAL: Han Jun Shik—a prix fixe meal in which four side dishes are served along with a main course of the diner's choice, plus a sweet cinnamon-ginger drink and dessert.

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