Dish Review

This little sushi bar at the unglamorous junction of Highway 217 and Interstate 5 may be relatively unsung, but it serves creative, spanking-fresh Japanese food in a homey atmosphere of devoted regulars. Much of the delectable fish Hiro's serves is imported from Japan; proprietor Hiro Ikegaya says he's the only Portland restaurant getting deliveries from a top LA importer whose Seattle-bound trucks briefly pull off the interstate to drop his order. You'll encounter seasonal seafood you may not have tried before, like monkfish liver or buri (wild yellowtail). Traditional preparations are well executed, but the real lures are the special dishes, thoughtfully composed variations on Japanese and Western classics. Like most first-class Japanese restaurants, Hiro's isn't cheap, but one of my favorite dishes is a deal: meaty broiled yellowtail collar for $8.25. (Originally reviewed 6/2/04.)

WWeek 2015

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