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Andina: Restaurant Guide 2014

1314 NW Glisan St, 228-9535, andinarestaurant.com

[EL OFFICIO] Pearl District "Novoperuvian" mainstay Andina is eerily pristine in coordinated earth tones and overseen by maitre d's who seem to have been cloned into impeccably tailored suits with graying pony tails. It's a big operation: There are three floors of dining areas and five types of ceviche. Order from a tapas menu of indulgently rich plates in small, medium or large ($12-$40) and watch your tabletop fill with a spread of cilantro-garnished meats, well-spiced potato variations and everything stuffed: croquetas, peppers, and puffed empanadas. Duck two ways and lamb shank in cilantro-black beer sauce are lush picks, or impress visitors with the $115 frutas del mar, a maritime armada of oyster, prawn and salsa-topped mussel served up in a pagoda of platters. But Andina pleases even if you don't ride the tapas roller coaster past your yearly quail-egg quota. Crab-stuffed avocado ($12-$40) and the green mango ceviche in passionfruit leche de tigre ($16) have a refreshing tang, reasonable price point, and perfect portions. The habanero vodka and passionfruit Sacsayhuaman cocktail ($11) is an ideal accompaniment—the beverage equivalent of their three house salsas blended with a vodka chaser. ENID SPITZ.

Pro tip:

Get happy-hour chicken, octopus or beef kebabs ($7.50-$30) before 6 pm, then stick around for the nightly live music.

11 am-2:30 pm daily, 5-9:30 pm Thursday-Sunday. Bar 4-11 pm Thursday-Sunday, 4 pm-12 am Friday-Saturday. $$$-$$$$.