On the fringes of fashion design lurks a distinguished and highly skilled coterie of art-to-wear designers. Their reigning queen is none other than West Linn artist Kayla Kennington, who just won the Crème de la Crème award at a recent Houston fashion show juried by Bernina (they make those über-fancy sewing and embroidery machines). As Kayla's winning garment, an elaborately embroidered coat titled Butterfly, travels the globe in the Bernina show's traveling exhibit, Kayla shares her thoughts about painted sweatshirts, forbidden stitches and what it takes to pocket the prize.
Willamette Week: What kind of clothing does the term 'art-to-wear' describe? What's included? What's excluded?
Kayla Kennington: Unfortunately, the term 'art-to-wear' has come to mean many things, from sweatshirts decorated with scribble paints and rhinestones to museum pieces. I usually use the term "couture artwear" because my clothing is made of fine fabrics--silks and velvets--and made with very precise workmanship.
Your winning design took close to 1,000 hours to complete. What aspect of the work is most challenging?
I spent about 400 of the 1,000 hours actually sewing the garment. This was definitely the most challenging time spent. I was committed to creating a museum-quality piece, which meant painstaking perfection. I must have taken as many stitches out as I put in during the process! Many more hours were spent sketching, planning and ordering materials. The show producers also required sketches, swatches, descriptions and commentary for the show.
What was your impression of your competitors in the Bernina show?
The show was a wonderful range from elegance to fantasy, all done
with exquisite workmanship. The participating designers were chosen because of their level of excellence and creativity. This show is juried, to begin with; hundreds apply each year.
You used a certain stitch in your garment considered similar to the "forbidden stitch" found in Ming dynasty robes.
As legend has it, the young girls would go blind embroidering this stitch because it was so tiny. I chose to create my coat as a tribute to the incredible works of that time, but to also honor our technology today, using the amazing new sewing machines to make similar stitches.
Do you consider yourself more of a fine artist or a fashion designer, or are those terms even useful in the context of your work?
I consider myself both. I consider my winning Butterfly piece fine art. My new pattern collection is based on 15 years of creating one-of-a-kind clothing--fashion--which I consider couture artwear.
Why is Portland a good home base
to do the work you do?
I love the natural beauty here. The clouds are magnificent. I find views calming. I like the weather. It's always nice to sew when it's raining outside.
Where and when can Portlanders see your work?
The easiest place to see my work is on the Internet (www.kaylakennington. com). The Butterfly piece will be at the [July 2002] Embellishments Show in Portland. I will also be teaching at the Design and Sew retreat in Canby next spring [May 9-14] and will have samples of my work with me for viewing. I also occasionally have a studio sale. I list my current events on my website.
To let us know about special events or sales, send information to Elizabeth Dye,
, 822 SW 10th Ave., Portland, OR 97205 (fax 243-1115), at least 10 days prior to publication.float like a Butterfly. Kennington's prize- winning piece
WWeek 2015