1301 NE Dekum St., psandqsmarket.com. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Saturday-Sunday.

Woodlawn in its gentrifying state is, in a way, as oddly curated as this throwback bodega, where coconut milk and oversized tins of tahini share shelf space with laundry detergent and individual rolls of toilet paper. It's the kind of no-nonsense joint where, when someone tells you to try the brisket, you put down the menu and try the brisket. Though that much-hyped sandwich holds its own, with a hamburger-sized potato bun and mess of cool cilantro slaw, skip the superfluity and spring for the brisket plate ($12), best enjoyed with a happy-hour draft at one of the quaint sidewalk tables. Or, with 24 hours' notice and a $15 deposit, have the market pack you a picnic basket brimming with snacks and sandwiches of your choice and walk it over to Woodlawn Park to enjoy Northeast in full bloom.