1. Kachinka

720 SE Grand Ave., 503-235-0059, kachkapdx.com.

While Kachka has moved to bigger, more refined digs a few blocks away, new sister restaurant Kachinka took over the old hole in the wall. Here, the Russian pop is loud, the doors stay open until midnight every night, and you can order several of Kachka's best dishes at happy-hour prices all night long.

(Sam Gehrke)
(Sam Gehrke)

2. Smallwares

25 N Fremont St., 503-206-6421, smallwarespdx.com.

Johanna Ware's pan-fusion playground of zoomingly intense flavors has returned to Fremont Street. Along with old favorites like the candied kale and the pork-and-sichuan peppercorn chawanmushi, there's the deceptively complex tuna tataki and a kimchi pancake underlaid with tender bites of octopus.

Tuna tataki at Smallwares. (Abby Gordon)
Tuna tataki at Smallwares. (Abby Gordon)

3. Holdfast Dining

2131 SE 11th Ave., 503-504-9448, holdfastdining.com.

One of Portland's first breakout pop-up restaurants, Holdfast has made a seamless transition to permanence. The $140 ticket includes the prix fixe meal, drinks and tip, which makes it one of the most affordable of Portland's innovative fine-dining destinations. Recent standouts include house-cured salmon roe beneath minuscule threads of smoked salmon; olive oil-poached baby octopus with Castelvetrano olive puree; and a boneless duck confit.

(Emily Joan Greene)
(Emily Joan Greene)

4. Casa Zoraya

841 N Lombard St., 503-384-2455, casazorayapdx.com.

One of Portland's best dining bargains sits on North Lombard, wedged between a mobile phone shop and a leather bar. The menu at this Peruvian-focused eatery isn't nearly as long as that at Andina, but it takes each dish seriously. The standout is the lomo saltado criollo ($20), a tender, stir-fried sirloin creation in a thick, flavorful sauce that's both spicy and sugary.

(Jensen Ocampo)
(Jensen Ocampo)

5. Sugarpine Drive-In

1208 E Historic Columbia River Highway, Troutdale, 503-665-6558, sugarpinedrivein.com.

Situated at the gateway to the Gorge, the vibe at Sugarpine is almost that of a camp mess hall, until you remember camp food was never this good. The pulled-pork sandwich is a balancing act of smoke and sweet, and the waffle grilled cheese is oh-my-God good.

(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)