1. OK Omens

1758 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-231-9939, okomens.com.

Castagna's delightful new casual-dining sibling has a menu full of shareable, value-priced gems. The vegetable dishes are the highlight, but don't stop there—grilled squid hits that hard-to-achieve textural happy place, and the burger is like In-N-Out gone to Harvard.

dish_hunnymilk_4447
2. HunnyMilk

1981 W Burnside St., 503-719-7349, hunnymilk.com.

The charmingly twee brunch pop-up soft-opened its brick-and-mortar location last week, with a prix fixe model that'll get you a savory dish, a sweet dish and a drink for a flat $22. Whatever you do, do not forsake the fortune-cookie waffles.

(Emily Joan Greene)
(Emily Joan Greene)

3. Holdfast Dining

2131 SE 11th Ave., 503-504-9448, holdfastdining.com.

One of Portland's first breakout pop-up restaurants, Holdfast has made a seamless transition to permanence. The $140 ticket includes the prix fixe meal, drinks and tip, which makes it one of the most affordable of Portland's innovative fine-dining destinations. Recent standouts include house-cured salmon roe beneath minuscule threads of smoked salmon; olive oil-poached baby octopus with Castelvetrano olive puree; and a boneless duck confit.

(Abby Gordon)
(Abby Gordon)

4. Smallwares

25 N Fremont St., 503-206-6421, smallwarespdx.com.

Johanna Ware's pan-fusion playground of zoomingly intense flavors has returned to Northeast Fremont. Along with old favorites like the candied kale and the pork-and-sichuan peppercorn chawanmushi, there's the deceptively complex tuna tataki and a kimchi pancake underlaid with tender bites of octopus.

(Sam Gehrke)
(Sam Gehrke)

5. Kachinka

720 SE Grand Ave., 503-235-0059, kachkapdx.com.

While Kachka has moved to bigger, more refined digs a few blocks away, new sister restaurant Kachinka took over the old hole in the wall. Here, the Russian pop is loud, the doors stay open until midnight every day, and you can order several of Kachka's best dishes at happy-hour prices all night long.