Lucky Labrador

By Penelope Bass

915 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 236-3555, luckylab.com. 11 am-11 pm Monday-Thursday, 11 am-midnight Friday-Saturday, Sunday noon-10 pm. 1945 NW Quimby St. 517-4352; 1700 North Killingsworth St., 505-9511; 7675 SW Capitol Highway, 244-2537. 11 am-11 pm Monday-Wednesday, 11 am-midnight Thursday-Saturday, noon-10 pm Sunday.

The best thing about being in a relationship with a dog is the freedom and unconditional love that come from a lack of judgment. Fido will never give you the side eye when you reach for that fifth slice of pizza or vomit off the back porch—he'll probably even help you clean it up. The best thing about Lucky Lab is that it understands the importance of the human-canine bond and fosters it with beer. Lucky Lab's flagship beer hall on Hawthorne embraces a minimalistic Elks lodge vibe—complete with cork boards covered in snapshots of patrons' dogs in collages that are both sweet and a little creepy—and matches the ambiance with perfectly serviceable brews. Best to stick with the classics, like the crisp Byron's Pale Ale, delightfully piney Superdog IPA and the Black Lab Stout. This old dog doesn't do too many new tricks.

Bridget Baker Bridget Baker

Drink This: The Black Lab Stout on cask, which is smooth and velvety like a dog just back from the groomer.

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