The Legendary Fish & Chips Sandwich at Pal’s Might Take Two People to Reel In

Eating a fried fish sandwich is generally about as exciting as getting a physical. Flavorless McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish and other alarmingly angular fried shapes come to mind. Even at restaurants that aren’t a drive-thru or a cafeteria, fish sandwiches often feel like an afterthought with little fanfare and pizzazz. But on the outer reaches of Hayden Island, one of Portland’s newest eateries is trying to swim against the tide of blandness by making its fish sandwich the star of its show.

Opened in August by the team behind Central Oregon’s Suttle Lodge & Boathouse, Pal’s bills itself as a “fish shack-meets-snack bar” with a scruffy yet airy nautical theme inspired by the kind of no-frills seafood joints you find around New England. An expansive patio and porch seating overlook a quiet inlet that serves as a marina for sailboats and yachts, making it a gem of a spot to catch a sunset on the Columbia River. Both in menu and vibe, owners Donald Kenney, Sean Hoard and Brandon Bowden cite the James Beard Award–winning roadside eatery Bagaduce Lunch in Maine as being responsible for their creative take on a fish sandwich.

“They take a whole filet of fish, usually haddock, like one of the kinds they use for their fish and chips, and slap it between a bun with a side of tartar sauce and call it a ‘sandwich.’ It’s a bit uninspired, but it’s ostentatious in its presentation,” Kenney says.

Anyone who has dined at the Suttle Lodge may also recognize similarities on the Pal’s menu, with items like the Oregon Albacore tuna salad sandwich ($23.50), B’s Bay Shrimp Roll ($14.50), and the Hayden’s Burger ($12.50), all popping up in similar fashion. If the illustrious name doesn’t give it away, The Legendary Fish & Chips Sandwich ($27) is the cornerstone of the menu at Pal’s after proving to be a hit at the Boathouse.

“It got us thinking about fish and chips, and like, wouldn’t it be fun if it was all in one, like breaded in potato chips or something, and the Fish & Chips Sandwich was born,” Kenney says.

With crunchy breading and visible pieces of chips fried to a golden brown around a long slab of rainbow trout; a tangy sauce that is a cross between classic tartar and Cajun remoulade; and a proper slice of creamy, salty American cheese with shredded lettuce for a little freshness, the sandwich is a sort of transcontinental amalgamation of several regional dishes with a decidedly Pacific Northwest flair. It nods to those aforementioned fish sandwiches of your youth, but this one classes things up.

“To make it something respectable and local, we had to use a sustainably sourced fish,” Kenney says. “We opted for locally farmed Idaho rainbow trout for its consistency and availability and price.”

Its jaw-dropping price tag seems to go against the fast-casual seafood shack vibe that Pal’s is going for, and it might be nice to at least get a side like potato salad or curly fries (those can be added for $5), but it’s worth noting that the prices Pal’s charges include an automatic gratuity. The entree-sized piece of rainbow trout, held in a seeded bun, can easily be shared by two people.

“The sandwich is a hilarious presentation, making guests wonder exactly how to tackle it to start,” Kenney says. “It’s meant to be fun, kind of messy, a challenge for one or entertainment for two.”

Even as the weather gets cooler, parking on the porch with a pal and splitting the sandwich while sipping tropical-leaning cocktails like an Island Negroni ($15) or a classic Dark ’n’ Stormy ($15) while watching the world flow by makes for a damn fine afternoon.

During a moment like this, you might just come to the happy realization that fish sandwiches don’t have to be such a torturous ordeal. So is the fish sandwich at Pal’s worth the price? Mostly. It certainly elevates the concept of a fish sandwich into a worthwhile culinary attraction. Pal’s is the kind of place you go more for the vibes than the food.

In this regard, the fish sandwich is exactly the kind of thing you want to eat in a place that sits on the water. Compared to other, less creative menu items like the Avocado Deluxe Sandwich ($22.50), Northern Border Dog ($13.50) and various bowls and salads, the sandwich is the clear standout. And you can share it with a friend and still feel satiated.

Opening a restaurant largely dependent on its patio seating is a risky endeavor here in the rainy Pacific Northwest, but the team at Pal’s is planning ahead. There are plans to do more indoor seating, and the restaurant recently launched morning coffee and breakfast. Pal’s opened in late summer and its ability to survive as a business will likely depend on next summer’s patio crowd, assuming it can strap in for a sleepy winter. As we look toward those dark days ahead, Pal’s fish sandwich might be one of the easiest ways to get one more taste of summer.

TRY IT: Pal’s, 515 NE Tomahawk Island Drive, #105, 503-272-1604, palswithus.com. 7 am–9 pm daily.