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Hot Italian, no mustard. That was my standard order for a Fred Carlo sandwich at the Portland Farmers Market.
The late Carlo introduced Italian-style pork to Portland nearly 40 years ago at his Salumeria de Carlo inside the original Pastaworks on SE Hawthorne. He’d studied under legendary Italian butcher Dario Cecchini and broke down a whole pig every week to make prosciutto, coppa and other cured salumi. But he also made the best fresh sausages in town. That’s why I didn’t want mustard to get in the way of the spicy, porky goodness when I got a sandwich. But I did want the tangle of grilled onions and peppers he shoved into the split roll with the sausage.
Fred’s version of the classic Italian-American combo inspired this simple pasta dish. I made it without the sausage. Adding some wouldn’t hurt, but it’s very tasty without the pork. The fennel bulb and seeds provide a subtle reminder of the sausage’s flavor. Short pasta such as casarecce or fusilli work best.
Recipe
- 1 medium onion
- 2 red bell peppers
- 1 fennel bulb
- 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1 teaspoon kosher-style sea salt
- ½ teaspoon dried thyme
- ½ teaspoon dried oregano
- ½ teaspoon fennel seed
- Chile flake to taste, optional
- ¼ cup dry white wine
- ½ lb short pasta
- Grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese for serving
Cut the onion, peppers and fennel bulb into thin pieces about an inch long. Cook them in the olive oil and salt in a large skillet over medium heat until lightly browned and very soft, about 20 minutes. Add the herbs, fennel seed and chile flakes, and cook for another minute, then add the wine. Continue cooking until most of the wine has evaporated.
Cook the pasta in well-salted boiling water, but start tasting it a few minutes before the cooking time indicated on the package. I like mine a little firm but without the flavor of uncooked pasta, so I taste every minute or so until I think it’s right.
You can drain and reserve some of the starchy cooking water to add back, but I find it’s easier to use a slotted spoon to transfer the cooked pasta into the skillet with the vegetables. Enough water clings to them to get that emulsified saucy effect. Cook everything together for a few minutes, stirring enough to blend the oil and pasta water. Serve with grated Parmigiano Reggiano.
