Restaurant Guide 2013: Broder

2508 SE Clinton St., 736-3333,

[DUDE! SWEDE!] What is it with our city's Scandinavian establishments being absolute madhouses on the weekend? Ikea is a terror-land of screaming children bouncing off modular furniture, and Broder is an hour-minimum odyssey to get a seat. But the experience at Broder is much more civilized, with better coffee. Maybe it's the meatballs. And while you couldn't give me enough Dagstorp couches to brave the big blue box on a Sunday, I can be persuaded to invest a morning to eat top-notch aebleskivers—round pancakes improved by Swedish design. There's not enough fish in the breakfast sea, and Broder introduces several options to get your omega-3's before noon. It's best done with the signature trout hash, served in an adorable square skillet and topped with pickled beets, or with the Broder club, layers of house-cured gravlax, avocado, bacon and horseradish cream on lightly toasted bread. Unlike the many establishments that serve up uninspired scrambles not even as good as the ones your mom makes, this Southeast Clinton spot is worth the wait—even if your mom is the Swedish Chef. 

Ideal meal: Get the smoked trout hash ($12), aebleskivers ($9) with a double helping of lemon curd, and meatballs ($11). Share.

Best deal: Get one of Broder's rotating sweet treats ($4) to add something sugary to the meal without buying another entree.

Pro tip: Unlike many trendy brunch spots, Broder serves theirs all week. Skip the wait and go on a Tuesday.

9 am-3 pm daily, 5 pm-close Wednesday-Saturday. $-$$.


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