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For nearly a decade, Portland's best pizza has been anachronistically named and a royal pain in the ass to buy. And for just as long, waiting for Brian Spangler's perfectly chewy, char-spotted, sweet-sauced pies has been a proud local tradition. Even after Apizza Scholls expanded into the next-door space at its Tabor pie house, wait times still topped an hour unless you posted up outside the door before the 5 pm opening time—meaning you still waited an hour.
Well, consider that era over. First came the to-go orders. Then came reservations, even for a gluttonous singleton. And now, for the first time, you can get Apizza Scholls at midday. And you can get personal pies. With, like, eggs on them.
On Saturdays and Sundays since December, Scholls has been open for lunch, so for just three hours each weekend day, you can get an 11-inch personal pizza, with small brunch-ish concessions like white pies topped with chilies, pepper, spinach and fried eggs just on the easy side of sunny-side up ($14 with bacon, $13 without). And for now, those mobbing crowds have not caught on, which means you can waltz right in. We sort of regret telling anybody.
There are other new pies, including one with house meatballs. But I'm sort of obsessed with the PB&J ($14), so cheeseless it looks bloody, with pineapple, Canadian bacon and jalapeños on top—a Hawaiian gone spicy and ridiculously saucy. Meanwhile, the Sausage & Mama is still around in miniature form for lunch, at $14.
A note, though: If you're with someone who agrees with you about food, the lunch actually ends up being more expensive than sharing a 20-incher at dinner. And the lunch menu is heavier on the white pies than the pies with that beautifully sweet-salty marinara.
But these are quibbles. More is more, and don't let anybody tell you different.
WWeek 2015
