Roost: Restaurant Guide 2014

1403 SE Belmont St., 971-544-7136, roostpdx.com

[BUCKMAN SLEEPER] Roost offers both a mystery and an opportunity. For four years the classic-American restaurant has been consistently sourcing top-notch ingredients just steps away from the sidewalk-spilling scene at Crush, and a mere block from noisy Nostrana. And yet it never seems to draw a crowd. The upside is that it's therefore accessible for walk-in dining, attentive service, and a decibel level conducive to conversation. In a rustic-American dinner menu containing the refined simplicity of a panko-crusted paillard of pork ($21) or roasted true cod with charred scallions, the restaurant's meticulous approach can be seen even in its burger ($15). Within the confines of a tender bun, a hand-formed patty of Worcestershire-soaked beef trembles under a luscious fondue of cheddar cheese, a thick strip of bacon, and a dab of garlicky aioli, complemented by a side of arugula and other greens in a sherry vinaigrette. Oh, and a handful of crispy onion rings. You can request a side of french fries but really, this burger—like all the food here—requires your full attention. ANGIE JABINE.

Pro tip:

Roost's weekend "Eggs Till 2" menu, served from 10 am to 2 pm, means there is just no reason to wreak havoc on your blood sugar by waiting an hour for a table at Bijou. Scoot over to Roost, throw back a Campari and grapefruit juice, and you'll quickly be devouring a steak tostada, cod cakes with poached eggs or ricotta pancakes.

5:30-10 pm Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30-9 pm Sunday, 10 am-2 pm brunch Saturday-Sunday. $$-$$$.