Thai Ginger

With the glut of Thai restaurants to choose from in this city, a little joint in an unassuming strip mall is the last place you expect to find a really excellent bowl of pad kee mao. Thai Ginger prepares it the right way: noodles covered, but not drenched, in soy sauce, garlic, ground chili and hot basil leaves, paired with toothsome tofu ($8.50). Ginger doesn't need a goofy pun to attract customers; the food speaks for itself. (MM)

2020 N Portland Blvd., 283-9731. Lunch and dinner daily.

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