1. Sunshine Noodles

3560 N Mississippi Ave., 971-220-1997, sunshinenoodles.com. 11 am-3 pm Thursday-Saturday.

Sunshine Noodles is an avowedly irreverent, none too serious take on contemporary Cambodian food by Revelry vet Diane Lam. The corn pudding is a candidate for the city's best new dessert, but the lime pepper wings are the breakout hit—spicy and complex, they want for nothing except a beer, and perhaps a napkin.

2. Rock Paper Fish

2605 SE Burnside St., rockpaperfishandchips.com. 11 am-9 pm Wednesday-Sunday.

Rock Paper Fish is yet another fast-casual Micah Camden restaurant, and yet another quick pandemic pivot. Open since mid-August, it's a pickup- and delivery-only fish-and-chips window, operating out of what used to be Boxer Ramen in the Burnside 26 building. The seafood may be mostly local or regional, but the style is New England: double-battered, double-fried, with thick fries reminiscent of Belgian frites.

Nacheaux owner Anthony Brown. IMAGE: Wesley Lapointe.
Nacheaux owner Anthony Brown. IMAGE: Wesley Lapointe.

3. Nacheaux

8145 SE 82nd Ave., 971-319-1134, nacheauxpdx.com. Noon-7 pm Wednesday-Thursday and Saturday, noon-8 pm Friday, 9 am-3 pm Sunday.

At Anthony Brown's garishly teal-colored food truck, Mexican favorites get hitched to Southern food and Cajun-Creole flavors. You can find "Mexicajun" food in both Louisiana and Southeast Texas, but it's a rare concept in Portland, if not entirely unheard of. The "Nacheaux nachos" start with a big pile
of fresh-fried chips and also feature carnitas that could just as easily be cochon au lait, while a cheesy "crunchwrap" comes stuffed with red beans, dirty rice and fried chicken.

Taqueria los Punales chef and co-owner David Madrigal. IMAGE: Christine Dong.
Taqueria los Punales chef and co-owner David Madrigal. IMAGE: Christine Dong.

4. Taquería los Puñales

3312 SE Belmont St., 503-206-7233, lospunales.com. 11 am-10 pm daily.

This tacho shop only opened this summer, but it feels like it's been serving the Sunnyside neighborhood for years. Every tortilla is made
in-house that day, stuffed with an array of guisados—complex braises of meats and vegetables, including carnitas, barbacoa and chicken tinga. The classic tinga is a perfect gateway to the guisado style, and chef David Madrigal's version is subtly excellent.

5. Dimo’s Apizza

701 E Burnside St., 503-327-8968, dimosapizza.com. 4-9 pm Wednesday-Sunday.

The menu at Dimo's Apizza is loaded with variations of the New Haven-style pies chef Doug Miriello grew up eating in Connecticut. But his new spot is aiming for a place in Portland's sandwich pantheon, too. The most recent addition to the menu is maybe the most impressive. It's called The Beast: whole top sirloin seasoned like brisket, cave-aged Gruyère and slathered-on aioli.