240 N Broadway No. 2, uprightbrewing.com, 5-9 pm Thursday, 4:30-9 pm Friday, 1-8 pm Saturday, 1-6 pm Sunday.

Though one expects a bit of improv from a brewer claiming inspiration from jazz great Charles Mingus, Upright has taken the shopworn taproom concept and buried it, quite literally, in the humid, weed-scented basement of the Leftbank building.

(Upright, Thomas Teal)
(Upright, Thomas Teal)

Those looking to sample Upright's acclaimed year-round and wacky seasonal creations will be doing so right in the middle of the low-lit brewery itself (or at gastropub Grain & Gristle). Two picnic tables, a record player and a handful of folding chairs are the only adornments amid the tanks and overhead pipes.

(Upright, Thomas Teal)
(Upright, Thomas Teal)
(Upright, Thomas Teal)
(Upright, Thomas Teal)

Though Upright initially made its name on limited-distribution farmhouse wheats and saisons, it has also become one of the city's greatest homes to sours and wilds. British and German styles like the Scottish ale and Baltic porter are worth checking out on tap, and, for true geeks, the tasting room is the best resource for one-off experimental and very-small-batch, barrel-aged brews available by the bottle, like the wine-graped Oregon Native, one of our favorite 10 beers of the year, the unendingly excellent Shades made with Rainier cherries, and the annual Fantasia brew made with peaches. Just be sure to bring cash—that old-school register in the corner isn't just for decoration.

(Upright, Thomas Teal)
(Upright, Thomas Teal)

Drink this: The tangy Four Play wheat, fermented with cherries, is sweet and pleasantly understated for a sour.

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