3928 N Mississippi Ave., nobonesbeachclub.com. 4-10 pm Tuesday-Thursday, 11 am-midnight Friday-Saturday, 11 am-10 pm Sunday. Happy hour 4-6 pm Tuesday-Friday, 11 am-3 pm weekends: $1 off wine, draft and wells, $6 slushies, $5-$6 small plates.

Established: January 2017

The old-school tiki club is a hall of meat—chicken-liver toast and pineapple pork—a goofballed 1950s party platter of loosely Polynesian junk. But the world's second vegan tiki bar (the first is the original No Bones in Seattle) turns out to be utterly delightful nonetheless. As much beach bar as geeky tiki, North Mississippi Avene's two-story No Bones has ceilings draped in fish nets, a thatched bar and walls smothered in Waikiki posters and hula-dancer island kitsch. The beer menu is scrawled on a surfboard in Sharpie, and the food is "fun" themed, with beer-battered avocado tacos ($12) and crispy-fried Buffalo-sauced cauliflower ($9) that, frankly, bests most of the local chicken-boned competition. Tack on Juanita's nachos ($12), coated in a pile of black beans and cashew sauce that doesn't hard-weld to the chips the way cheese does as it cools, and you're in a garbage-food heaven made of nuts and veg.

(Aubrey Gigandent)
(Aubrey Gigandent)
(Aubrey Gigandent)
(Aubrey Gigandent)

The mai tai was sweet treacle, sure, but the multi-rum piña colada was viscous, sweet, lovely and a mere $6 at happy hour. It didn't hurt that our bartender seemed to understand the spirit of the times we live in: "Since when do punks not punch Nazis?" she said, smiling. 

Bar story: After MacKenzie DeVito opened the first No Bones in Seattle, Portland vegans apparently begged her to open here—and tipped off DeVito the same day the former Coppia spot on North Mississippi Avenue went up for lease.

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