Associated
2131 SE 11th Ave., 503231-2809, associatedpdx.com.

(Julian Alexander)
(Julian Alexander)

P.R.E.A.M. is now a casual hangout bar called Associated. Chef Nick Ford still makes his stellar Neapolitan pies in a top-grade Italian oven. Ford's pies are extraordinary things, soft but chewy, with a ribbon of crispness. We love the classic American pie and the sausage and pepperoni basil walloped with fat and herbs. These pies rival Ken's—seriously.

East Glisan Pizza Lounge
8001 NE Glisan St., 971-279-4273, eastglisan.com

(Thomas Teal)
(Thomas Teal)

When this pie shop opened in Montavilla, it still had some work to do. So owner Kristen Martha Brown constantly improved her recipes until she had one of the best little pizzerias around. The day to go is Tuesday, when they make the best Detroit pies in town: traditional red-tops with a hearty sauce made special for this pie that's applied in careful rows atop a thick blend of mozzarella and brick cheese. East Glisan nailed this very tricky crust, allowing a little cheese to crisp into a cracker on the edge of the pan.

Crackerjacks
2788 NW Thurman St., 503-222-9069, crackerjackspub.com.

(Henry Cromett)
(Henry Cromett)

We don't just love this standout Slabtown dive because of the romantic story behind its founding; we go here because it quietly has some of the best barroom pizzas in town, with a thin, crisp crust overloaded with cheese and meat. Pair it with a flight of artisanal Jello-O shots (see page 59) for a classic Portland experience.

Baby Doll Pizza
835 SE Stark St., 503-459-4450, babydollpizza.com.

Baby Doll opened as a pizza shop, but became a proper bar when it tripled its seating space by taking over the former Bonfire next door. It's made some changes to the interior, but kept the outlines of the classic dark-walled, dimly lit burger dive. The pies are very good: The pepperoni slices, which curl up to form little "grease chalices," have a cult following.

Mississippi Pizza
3552 N Mississippi Ave., 503-288-3231, mississippipizza.com.

(mississippipizza.com)
(mississippipizza.com)

This Old Mississippi pizza spot and bluegrass bar has been around since "before gentrification"—back when the heart of the city's historically black neighborhood was home to white people running record labels and zine shops instead of white people with kombucha spots and soap stores. It still makes a really nice thick-crust pub pizza.

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