8268 SE 13th Ave, 503-946-8424, ancestrybrewing.com. 10 am-10 pm Monday-Thursday, 10 am-11 pm Friday and Saturday.
Ancestry juxtaposes a nautical theme and a focus on the desert. Specifically, on beer deserts. The operation started in Tualatin, where Ancestry still runs a production facility and taproom. But last summer it opened a satellite taproom in beer-thirsty Sellwood. Expect to find three or four IPAs—one named Piney, the others tilting piney. Otherwise, the focus is on traditional styles, with a hard English lean, including a malty ESB, a fruity mild and a brown porter that splits the difference between the more familiar brown and more robust American take on porter. The food menu includes a half-dozen burgers and better-than-average fish 'n' chips battered in that ESB.
Drink this: What's the malty style you tend to like the best? Get that.
The Best Portland Bars for Hardcore Bar Geeks | Portland's Best Cider Bars | These Are the Bars in Portland Where We Get Our Beer to Go | Where to Get Crowlers in Portland | Big Beer Halls Where You Can Drink With Half of Portland | The Six Best Spots to Take Little Ones For a Little Nip | Warm & Cozy Beer Caves | Portland Spots Where Great Food and Beer Come Together | Tap a Belgian or German at These Portland Bars