8268 SE 13th Ave, 503-946-8424, ancestrybrewing.com. 10 am-10 pm Monday-Thursday, 10 am-11 pm Friday and Saturday.

Ancestry juxtaposes a nautical theme and a focus on the desert. Specifically, on beer deserts. The operation started in Tualatin, where Ancestry still runs a production facility and taproom. But last summer it opened a satellite taproom in beer-thirsty Sellwood. Expect to find three or four IPAs—one named Piney, the others tilting piney. Otherwise, the focus is on traditional styles, with a hard English lean, including a malty ESB, a fruity mild and a brown porter that splits the difference between the more familiar brown and more robust American take on porter. The food menu includes a half-dozen burgers and better-than-average fish 'n' chips battered in that ESB.

Drink this: What's the malty style you tend to like the best? Get that.

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