28150 SE Highway 212, Boring, boringbrewing.com. 3-7 pm Wednesday-Thursday, noon-7 pm Friday-Saturday, noon-6 pm Sunday.

The taproom for John Griffin's Boring Brewing is housed inside a tin-roofed building on the front side of a garden shop in the heart of Boring, the favorite sister city to Dull, Scotland. The tiny bar features as many seats as it does styles of beer—about 10, depending on the season—and it's as quaint as the brewer's gentle takes on classic beers. One can shop for kitschy, hand-painted signs that implore you to "Believe there is good in the world" while exploring the bready, nutty simplicity hiding inside a pint of Boring Brown Ale, a name that doesn't do justice to its sheer cliffs of malt flavor. And even though hoppy selections like the Big Yawn IPA are decidedly old-school, they remain simple and balanced in their delivery, rather than sharp or as lifeless as title would suggest.

Drink this: The Boring Brown ale, a dark-copper-brown quaff that's full of nutty malt complexity and offers just a hint of roast on the finish.