328 N Main Ave., Gresham, 503-328-8474, oregonshoppyplace.com. 11 am-9 pm
Monday-Thursday, 11 am-10 pm Friday, 9 am-6 pm Sunday.

 The Hoppy Brewer is what Steinbart's must've been like after opening in 1918—something between frontier and refuge for a Gresham brew scene that's only now starting to pick up a few homegrown commercial beers. One side is a world of grain and yeast and a bathroom marked with a sign that says EMERGENCY PARKING ONLY. And the other is a many-couched and easy-chaired rec room for beer filled with a shotgun blast of singletons drinking a pint with their phones. The 28 taps include great beers from Dupont, Firestone, Melvin and Block 15, as well as five of the ski-themed Krauski's Brewskis brand the Hoppy Brewer makes on a one-barrel system. They've got a little ways to go on the house beers—there was a bit of unresolved acetone flavor on a few—but if you don't find a favorite after a five-deep tasting flight ($7.50), the guest taps offer plenty of backup. 

Drink this: The Midnight Rye'dr, a rye CDA dry-hopped with Amarillo, was
interestingly complex.