16506 SE 362nd Drive, Sandy, 503-308-3150, bunsenbrewer.com. 3-11 pm Monday-Thursday, 2 pm-midnight Friday, noon-1 am Saturday, 1-9 pm Sunday.

If a midlife crisis prompted your favorite high school chemistry teacher to suddenly give up his pension and open a brewery using as much stolen lab equipment as he could stuff into his Pontiac Aztek, it'd look a lot like Bunsenbrewer. This spot is in an industrial park in Sandy, and is furnished with metal lab stools and mismatched recliners and sofas someone could've left on a street corner in 1989. There are also diagrams labeling the parts of a cell and biochemical pathways and a framed poster of Spock. Your flight of beer comes in six 150-milliliter beakers, and is served on an artist's image of a split frog, dissection-tray-style. Bioengineering-degreed Aaron Hanson's beeriodic table includes a bright and tangy Halley Pineapple Wheat that turns tropical by the end, and a Fahrenheit Habanero Belgian whose heat builds but never overwhelms. But both the Faraday Vanilla Porter and Tesla Coffee Stout were a bit sweet, without enough of the flavor in their names.

Drink this: The van Helmont Dubbel starts smooth before introducing some clove spice and plumlike characteristics.