825 N Cook St., 503-265-8002, eclipticbrewing.com. 11 am-10 pm Monday-Thursday, 11 am-11 pm Friday-Saturday, 11 am-9 pm Sunday.

Just as the planets are held in orbital equilibrium through the cosmic balance of momentum and gravity, so too does Ecliptic achieve its own harmonious orbit through finely tuned balance. Founder John Harris spent decades brewing at places like McMenamins, Full Sail and Deschutes, where he wrote the recipes for Mirror Pond Pale Ale and Black Butte Porter, among others. He now populates his own little universe with experimental IPAs like the piney, spicy Filament Winter IPA, and the juicy, aptly named Starburst IPA.

And though many of his brews hover high on the bitterness scale, Harris' knack for finessing nuanced flavors and aromas from hops and malt results in dangerously drinkable beers like the bright and toasty Capella Porter, which heaped on three new gold medals this year. With a high-design taproom that still feels welcoming; elevated, seasonal comfort food; and experimental beers with broad appeal, the microcosm of Ecliptic finds its own place in the Portland beer universe.

Drink this: The Capella Porter. Sure, it won a bunch of medals, but just taste for yourself—you'll see.

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