29380 NE Owls Lane, Newberg, 503-349-8341, longbrewing.com. By appointment only.

Paul Long does things his own way. The retired electrical engineer and longtime wine lover built his own brewing system at his Newberg home so he can make the type of super-clean, well-balanced beers he likes to drink, and distributes them himself so he knows the bottles are fresh and well cared for. "The way my business model is, there's no compromises," he says. Long's beers cost about $10 per bomber and they aren't exotic in any way. Rather, Long aims for picky drinkers who want a porter, Pilsner or mildly hoppy IPA with the surgical cleanliness of macrobrew, but with crafty character. "The people who buy my beer are people who really notice flaws," he says. "At my price point, you'd better get some extra enjoyment out of it." If anything, Long has become even more passionate about his independence since a tough relationship with a distributor helped push his good buddy Henry Gorgas of Fire Mountain out of business. "Distributors like new, shiny objects, and that's hard on the guys who're already signed up," he says. So Long soldiers on, making his beer by hand and driving the bottles to places like Market of Choice in Cedar Mills and Northwest Fresh Seafood in Newberg. One man against the world.

Drink this: The Vienna Lager is my favorite—it's super-clean with a well-
structured malt base.